Genius Recipes
Extra-Creamy Beans From Scratch—Without Babysitting
This week’s Genius Recipe stems from the Tuscan tradition of throwing a flask of beans in the embers (without needing a flask or embers).
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Every week in Genius Recipes—often with your help!—Food52 Creative Director and lifelong Genius-hunter Kristen Miglore is unearthing recipes that will change the way you cook.
I know how easy cooking dried beans should be. Not to mention cheap, fortifying, delicious. I’ve preached to patient loved ones how much I love simmering beans from scratch, and that a big tub in the fridge for the week fills me with pride and relief.
And still. That sack of cannellini I stuck in my pantry three months ago as I started sheltering in place didn’t budge, while pasta and rice and plenty of tins of chickpeas fed us with the immediacy I seemed unable to think past.
Perhaps my reluctance was because nearly every pot of beans I’ve made—soaked and unsoaked, low-touch and thrice-boiled—has simmered on the stovetop. And, just as often, boiled wildly, then stopped and gone to sleep when I wasn’t looking. (You too?)
Keeping my beans on track, however simple it might be, requires a level of sustained attention I haven’t been able to offer up lately. And while I’ve heard special equipment like Instant Pots and Crock-Pots and pressure cookers can lend a hand, they also require shelf space many of us don’t have.
But then I remembered this technique from Rachel Roddy, the English food writer and Guardian columnist living in Rome, for rich and creamy beans braised in the oven. It’s inspired by the gentle Tuscan method of cooking al fiasco, in a flask in the dying embers of a fire (or a pizza oven, cooling for the night)—similar in spirit if not flavor to Boston baked beans and the Native American techniques that preceded them.
Worry not—you don’t need a pizza oven or a fire or even a flask. Just a pot, oven, and any dried beans you fancy.
This oven technique maintains a consistent, barely shimmying simmer without ever needing to check in on it. In about an hour and a quarter (depending on the variety and age), the beans are buttery and yielding; the broth good enough to drink. This is in part thanks to the laidback bake with olive oil, sage, and whole garlic cloves, but also a more brusque endnote: fishing out the cloves and squeezing out the sweet, softened paste to melt into the bean liquor.
And now that I love (and I hope you love) cooking beans from scratch again, all we need is more inspiration for what to do with them. Below is a start.
Ingredients
| 1 | pound (450g) dry cannellini (or other) beans |
| 3 | garlic cloves, unpeeled |
| 6 | sage leaves (or other sturdy herbs) |
| 5 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
| Salt |
| 1 | pound (450g) dry cannellini (or other) beans |
| 3 | garlic cloves, unpeeled |
| 6 | sage leaves (or other sturdy herbs) |
| 5 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
| Salt |
Got a genius recipe to share—from a classic cookbook, an online source, or anywhere, really? Perhaps something perfect for beginners? Please send it my way (and tell me what's so smart about it) at genius@food52.com—thank you to my former Food52 teammate (and Senior Writer for the Education Initiative at the Council on Foreign Relations), Annie Crabill for this one!
From our new podcast network, The Genius Recipe Tapes is lifelong Genius hunter Kristen Miglore’s 10-year-strong column in audio form, featuring all the uncut gems from the weekly column and video series. Subscribe on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you get your podcasts so you don’t miss out.
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Written by: Kristen Miglore
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70 Comments
Amy
January 22, 2023
Make hummus. I’ve only been using canned beans for hummus because they’re so creamy but I’m definitely going to try this method. It would be soooo nice to get dried beans super creamy. So much more affordable. Thanks. And have a great day
Nlamp
April 28, 2023
I make hummus from dried chickpeas, using Ottolenghi's method, and it is the creamiest I've ever had. And, you're right, so inexpensive! I think food 52 featured this recipe, but if I'm wrong, it's widely available online.
Roberto S.
August 25, 2020
Hey now...Great dish...Haven't made it yet, just thinking about it...Will do this weekend...The scum is called "skim the scum" I learn that from Culinary school used by Scoffier and Careme...So it goes way back . There's a specific tool for it..It's like a flat spoon with an edge...It's to get rid of the impurities released by the product..whatever it may be...Stews, beans, etc...Call it starches, protein...again whatever...The impurities tend to sour-up the overall taste of the food...
You can use the extra beans by adding to other beans and grains for lunch or the likes like I do every day for lunch...The water (Aquafaba) you can use for stocks, miso soups, and also when making polenta. Hope it helped...Thanks for your time. Best, Roberto
You can use the extra beans by adding to other beans and grains for lunch or the likes like I do every day for lunch...The water (Aquafaba) you can use for stocks, miso soups, and also when making polenta. Hope it helped...Thanks for your time. Best, Roberto
Kim S.
June 22, 2020
I made these last night with black beans and Bell's seasoning, because that was what I had on hand and it's mostly ground sage. Served it as a warm salad with roasted butternut squash and farro over lightly dressed greens accompanied by cheesy baked polenta. Super yummy!
Marti
June 19, 2020
I made these for dinner last night. I used fresh rosemary (because I had it on hand), and threw in 5-6 cloves of garlic (three seemed like not enough). When I started the pot of beans, I covered them with water and I may have added too much of it because the end product after cooking seemed like I had a ton of liquid in the pot. Is there nice way to use up this extra liquid, perhaps as a base in another soup? My son and husband loved the recipe, although I don't think I used enough salt to season them, so they were a bit bland tasting at first. Lastly, I had some Trader Joe's spicy italian chicken sausage that I took out of the casings, sliced up, and browned in the frypan. I then later added the sausage to the beans while I kept them warm, on low, in the oven until dinnertime. I think they added a nice meaty touch to the beans, but honestly could probably have omitted and the beans would be lovely on their own. It was fun to make them from scratch--I'd forgotten how much pleasure one gets from cooking up a simple bag of beans. Thank you for sharing the recipe and technique.
Kristen M.
June 22, 2020
Yum, thanks so much for sharing, Marti. And yes, bean broth is a great base to start other soups, braises, pasta sauces—anything you want to add some flavor and body to.
MacGuffin
September 4, 2020
I used more than three cloves (because I love it) one time I made them and could barely taste the beans themselves, so no more than three from now on. I also added too much water the first time I made them, so resist the urge! At MOST 2" above the beans before they go in the oven. You'll still have plenty of that delicious broth.
Kirsten
June 19, 2020
A lovely recipe that was so simple and satisfying and pleasing to family. My new favorite.
Jeanne
June 18, 2020
I made these today. They're addictive. After skimming some off for freezing, I added greens to the rest, with all the delicious broth. With some slices of vegan apple sage sausage, a bit of rice and some good bread, dinner is ready. Thank you so much for a lovely recipe, which is so much easier than the usual way that I do cannellini beans, and a whole lot better. Oh, and I used a cast iron casserole for top of the stove and oven cooking,the same one I use for baking bread. And doubled the recipe because I had a lot of beans so took an extra 15 minutes or so in the oven.
Lexica
June 18, 2020
Russ Parsons's oven-baked method (similar but doesn't include the garlic cloves) has been my favorite way of making beans for years, so I'm looking forward to trying this! Thanks, Kristen!
Virginia
June 18, 2020
Delicious, easy, and fun to make. Added quite a bit of kosher salt--don't be shy!
LaurieLewis
June 17, 2020
Found an answer to the foam skimming issue: Simmering beans typically produce a frothy cap of foam. It’s innocuous stuff that’s nothing more than tiny pockets of air surrounded by a thin layer of water that are stabilized by proteins exuded from the beans that dissolve in the water. While they won’t harm the beans, we typically skim the foam off for a clearer appearance.
gretchen G.
June 17, 2020
Just overcooked my cannellini beans the other night for just the reason that you mention in the video, Kristen -- didn't pay attention to what was happening on the stovetop. Can't wait to try this recipe. The video makes the recipe seem accessible and is inspiring.
Pamela_in_Tokyo
June 17, 2020
Thank you for this very nice video and this very nice way of cooking beans. I’m sure it will be very useful but I want to add a word of caution.
I was looking up John Thorne and his book POT ON THE FIRE, which was mentioned in another reader’s comments. I wanted to find out more about beans as I love beans. And I was so happy to read about Food 52’s method of cooking beans in the oven which looks so wonderful. And is still wonderful I think. But,....
I found a site talking about John Thorne’s method but also cautioned that you do have to BOIL RED KIDNEY BEANS FOR 10 to 30 MINUTES, because THEY HAVE A TOXIN. I can’t believe I didn’t now this but dried RED KIDNEY BEANS have a TOXIN that requires at least 10 minutes of boiling at 212°F to destroy. Scientists do recommend 30 minutes though to be safe. Even white kidney bean relatives like the cannelloni beans also have this toxin but to a much lesser extent. I don’t know about all the beans of the world. The red kidney bean has the most. And they are completely safe after the initial boil to cook in anyway that you prefer. So using a slow cooker or cooking in the oven for these beans is okay IF YOU BOIL THEM FIRST for 10-30 minutes!
https://u.osu.edu/chowline/2013/04/17/dry-kidney-beans-need-to-be-boiled/
I was looking up John Thorne and his book POT ON THE FIRE, which was mentioned in another reader’s comments. I wanted to find out more about beans as I love beans. And I was so happy to read about Food 52’s method of cooking beans in the oven which looks so wonderful. And is still wonderful I think. But,....
I found a site talking about John Thorne’s method but also cautioned that you do have to BOIL RED KIDNEY BEANS FOR 10 to 30 MINUTES, because THEY HAVE A TOXIN. I can’t believe I didn’t now this but dried RED KIDNEY BEANS have a TOXIN that requires at least 10 minutes of boiling at 212°F to destroy. Scientists do recommend 30 minutes though to be safe. Even white kidney bean relatives like the cannelloni beans also have this toxin but to a much lesser extent. I don’t know about all the beans of the world. The red kidney bean has the most. And they are completely safe after the initial boil to cook in anyway that you prefer. So using a slow cooker or cooking in the oven for these beans is okay IF YOU BOIL THEM FIRST for 10-30 minutes!
https://u.osu.edu/chowline/2013/04/17/dry-kidney-beans-need-to-be-boiled/
Curt C.
June 17, 2020
So sad. I'm 63 and grew up on red beans and rice. I've never heard of, or been affected by, any toxins in a bean. Why must we panic and fear all things? Maybe if you eat 300 lbs of beans a week this toxin will kill you, but i don't and i have plenty of other things to fear other than a red kidney bean.
Pamela_in_Tokyo
June 17, 2020
I didn’t know any of this myself till today. So I totally understand and agree about all the issues and the sadness. I have cooked a lot of red kidney beans in my 73 years too!
According to the Scientific report that I read just 5 or 6 beans incorrectly cooked could cause illness. No, not 300 lbs. I wouldn’t have mentioned it if it was 300 lbs.... But please do check it out for yourself. Please do search on the Internet.
According to the Scientific report that I read just 5 or 6 beans incorrectly cooked could cause illness. No, not 300 lbs. I wouldn’t have mentioned it if it was 300 lbs.... But please do check it out for yourself. Please do search on the Internet.
James C.
June 17, 2020
Indeed, I'm with you. I don't think this is worth fearing. This post says the problem is when beans are "not properly cooked." Later it says "thorough cooking" is required; later it's "fully cooked".
Only then do they recommend boiling 10+ minutes (that's the recommendation from the FDA). What's very clear to me from both experience and the already deep research that Thorne (and generations upon generations of people before him): you do NOT need to boil beans in order to thoroughly/fully cook them. Mine cook for about 4 hours -- and they're fully cooked.
I'll take cooking advice from grandmas over the FDA 100% of the time.
Only then do they recommend boiling 10+ minutes (that's the recommendation from the FDA). What's very clear to me from both experience and the already deep research that Thorne (and generations upon generations of people before him): you do NOT need to boil beans in order to thoroughly/fully cook them. Mine cook for about 4 hours -- and they're fully cooked.
I'll take cooking advice from grandmas over the FDA 100% of the time.
Valerie
June 22, 2020
Aren't they thoroughly cooked when cooked? In the oven, on top of the stove? When (in the above video) the beans are removed from the oven and the lid is lifted they look a lot like "boiling". I doubt very much this toxin is harmful. Don't eat raw red kidney beans if you are afraid.
Kristen M.
June 22, 2020
Pamela, thanks so much for sharing. These beans do simmer the whole time, albeit gently, so I believe they'll meet this standard.
MacGuffin
July 8, 2020
It's not that kind of "toxin" and has nothing to do with panic. First, you only have to give them a hard boil for 10 minutes, 15 if you're concerned (I don't know how the FDA came up with 30). If you don't, THIS toxin results in violent nausea and diarrhea. If you haven't experienced this, your kidney beans have been properly cooked.
James C.
June 17, 2020
You MUST read John Thorne's take on this, collected in his 2000 book, with Matt Thorne, "Pot on the Fire: Further Exploits of a Renegade Cook." I think it's the definitive coverage of "beans in a flask" -- an historical view, recipes, variations, and much more. Since I read this in 2006, I've never cooked beans another way. It's truly a genius recipe.
The one note I add for those I've given it to: depending on the pot you use, it can take some work to get the temperature right inside the pot (ie, ~200 degrees F).
The one note I add for those I've given it to: depending on the pot you use, it can take some work to get the temperature right inside the pot (ie, ~200 degrees F).
Curt C.
June 17, 2020
Ahh yes, "first get out your bean pot". I adore John Thorne's writing and I'm so happy you brought him up.
Lea C.
June 17, 2020
Heating the pot on the stove top before putting it in the oven ensures it goes into the oven at the correct temperature inside the pot. Using an enameled cast iron pot also helps.
I keep an old pizza stone on the bottom rack of my oven, which also helps in ensure even cooking and steady temperature.
I keep an old pizza stone on the bottom rack of my oven, which also helps in ensure even cooking and steady temperature.
James C.
June 17, 2020
Yes, very much depends on the cooking vessel. I use a glazed clay pot, which I preheat in the oven; then boil the liquid on the stove; add beans then liquid, then back in the oven. Even so, it doesn't really hit its "stride" with the right simmer until over an hour in there.
If you preheat the entire pot on the stove, esp if it's enameled cast iron, it's probably less of an issue. But my beans are room temp and the clay pot doesn't retain heat like the cast iron.
If you preheat the entire pot on the stove, esp if it's enameled cast iron, it's probably less of an issue. But my beans are room temp and the clay pot doesn't retain heat like the cast iron.
Kristen M.
June 22, 2020
Thanks for sharing, James—I'll make sure to seek it out. I've tried John Thorne's overnight oven method and felt a little uneasy leaving my oven on all night, so I appreciated that this one is done relatively quickly.
MacGuffin
September 4, 2020
Fear not! I use your method but I turn the heat down to 225º - 250º and let them go overnight. They usually take ~10 hours.
Yanive1
June 17, 2020
Could I use lentils instead of beans?
Kristen M.
June 22, 2020
Yanive1, you could likely use this method for lentils and they'd just be done much more quickly.
Vivian
June 17, 2020
Hi Kristen,
I love beans, so when I saw your post on beans, I had to watch your video. Here’s one of my favorite way to eat beans. In a skillet with some olive oil cook one chopped onion, chopped green bell peppers salt and cook on medium heat for 5-6 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 2 cloves of garlic finely minced stir in well. Add 1 teaspoon of oregano 1/4 teaspoon of cumin and cook for a minute or so. Add 1/4 cup of tomato sauce. Pour to the beans and cook for a few minutes. Serve with white rice. Enjoy 😊
I love beans, so when I saw your post on beans, I had to watch your video. Here’s one of my favorite way to eat beans. In a skillet with some olive oil cook one chopped onion, chopped green bell peppers salt and cook on medium heat for 5-6 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 2 cloves of garlic finely minced stir in well. Add 1 teaspoon of oregano 1/4 teaspoon of cumin and cook for a minute or so. Add 1/4 cup of tomato sauce. Pour to the beans and cook for a few minutes. Serve with white rice. Enjoy 😊
Lea C.
June 17, 2020
I made this recipe this morning but used canned beans. I thought I had all cannellini but accidentally grabbed both cannellini and pinto beans. Fortunately, it turned out beautifully! I love the broth. (Who knew you could get broth like that out of just a few ingredients?) I’m definitely keeping this recipe.
Kristen M.
June 22, 2020
Lea, that's so cool—I never would have thought to cook canned beans this way. Did you cook them the full hour-plus?
Ann
June 17, 2020
Kristen—You are the best! Your charming personality translates so well to these short videos (and shoutout to your husband, too). This video taught me a few things—hello tasting 5 beans I mean you—and they are delicious. Perfectly easy. A relief for those of us who can’t quite get the stove-top beans to behave. Bravo!!!!
Curt C.
June 17, 2020
Pretentious my ass. Folks beginning their cooking journey need to know that not every recipe has to have 100 ingredients. Beans, water, salt, sage & olive oil - yes, it is that simple. You are teaching starting blocks and filling a void. Back in the day we had Home Ec but that's long gone. You do a great job and I enjoy your personality. Thank you.
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