Books

The Whole-Roasted Broccoli Eden Grinshpan Eats Multiple Times in a Week

September 11, 2020
Photo by Aubrie Pick

“When I look around the table and see a collection of double-dipping, hand-eating, pants-unbuttoning guests, I know it’s been a successful night,” chef and Top Chef Canada host Eden Grinshpan writes in her first cookbook, Eating Out Loud, which debuted earlier this month.

Grinshpan, who is half Israeli and grew up in Toronto, learned to embrace this unshy, unfussy approach to food while living in Israel. She and her family travelled there for countless summers and, eventually, Grinshpan moved there after graduating from Le Cordon Bleu in London.

“I had the opportunity to backpack and explore the world and work in kitchens, which was a really big turning point for me,” she told me over the phone a couple weeks ago.

Indeed, the dishes that Grinshpan cooked and ate during those years are what turned the pages of Eating Out Loud shakshuka-crimson, hummus-beige, herby-emerald. Its chapters, from “Eggs All Day” to “Handheld Meals,” hinge on Middle Eastern flavors, like sticky pomegranate molasses, puckery sumac, and nutty tahini. (“I’m a firm believer in the motto, ‘If you fuck it up, put tahini on it,” Grinshpan writes.)

“The book is super veg-heavy,” she told me. “That’s how I make food at home.” Her fridge is reliably stuffed with what she calls “essentials,” such as garlicky tahini, labneh, and baba ghanoush. Just add in any vegetable slash meat slash starch and you have a pants-unbuttoning worthy meal.

Case in point: this amped-up broccoli with herbed yogurt and dukkah. Greek yogurt is treated to parsley, chives, and tarragon, plus a zing of just-squeezed lemon. And Grinshpan’s version of dukkah—an Egyptian condiment comprising toasted nuts, seeds, and spices—is chock-full of hazelnuts, cumin, coriander, and sesame. Prep the accessories in advance and tuck in the fridge. Then take care of the broccoli whenever dinner time rolls around.

Grinshpan’s whole-roasted technique is inspired by Israeli chef Eyal Shani’s cauliflower (what The New York Times calls his “signature dish”). You blanch the head, ensuring a buttery interior, and let it air-dry, then douse in olive oil and blast in a blistering oven. It’s the sort of why didn’t I think of that? technique that you—and by you, I mean I—will turn to again and again and again.

“Actually,” Grinshpan said, “I’ve made that dish three times in the last two weeks. My parents are like, ‘We need the broccoli!’” And honestly, who could blame them?

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Emma is the food editor at Food52. Before this, she worked a lot of odd jobs, all at the same time. Think: stir-frying noodles "on the fly," baking dozens of pastries at 3 a.m., reviewing restaurants, and writing articles about everything from how to use leftover mashed potatoes to the history of pies in North Carolina. Now she lives in New Jersey with her husband and their cat, Butter. Stay tuned every Tuesday for Emma's cooking column, Big Little Recipes, all about big flavor and little ingredient lists. And see what she's up to on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.

1 Comment

Sasha B. September 21, 2020
The recipe sounds delicious, but that photo is very unappealing. It looks like someone slipped in it.