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Bean

My Secret to Perfectly Cooked Dried Beans Every Time

It has yet to let me down.

March  6, 2025
Photo by James Ransom

The perfect bean doneness can be elusive, often feeling deceptively challenging to achieve. Putting a pot of beans on to simmer can feel like an act of faith, and it sometimes seems like you’ll never reach that ideal creamy, tender bite. But then—finally—you bite into one, and it’s perfect. You cut the heat, maybe prepare to serve yourself a bowl, and suddenly realize half the batch is still chalky in the center. Next time, before you make the call, don’t just taste one bean —taste five.

I call it the five bean rule, and it’s the simplest way to make sure your legume-filled dinner isn’t a disappointment. We’re living in a dried bean renaissance, and thanks to the popularity of producers such as Rancho Gordo, high quality heirloom varieties are easier than ever to come by. Still, even in this golden age of bean cookery, pulses can be unpredictable. Age, cultivar, and even how the beans were stored can affect their cooking time, and it can change from batch to batch. Some of even the highest quality beans will always soften a touch quicker, leaving others trailing behind. Tasting just one bean is a dangerous game, but five is likely to be representative of the whole batch.

It also helps to sample beans from different parts of the pot, as heat distribution can vary. If five beans are tender and fully cooked, with no hard white spots in their centers, you’re in the clear. If even one is still firm in the center, give the whole batch more time.

It’s a simple rule, but it’ll save you from the heartbreak of undercooked beans. If you’re feeling inspired—or just eyeing an old bag of dry cannellinis in your pantry—this recipe is a great place to start.


What’s your favorite dried bean recipe? Drop it in the comments!

See what other Food52 readers are saying.

  • Smaug
    Smaug
  • Sarah Lacewell
    Sarah Lacewell
Noah Tanen

Written by: Noah Tanen

Test Kitchen Content Creator at Food52

2 Comments

Smaug March 6, 2025
So, "try them, cook until done"? Simple advice indeed. There's a lot more detail in various articles on Serious Eats; presoaking isn't necessary for some varieties; they advocate salting beans from the start (it actually makes them tenderer) and the use of baking soda in soaking water, which I've found quite helpful. Acidic ingredients should be held until the beans are done. I'm by no means sold on all their advice, but I've found them to be quite reliable on beans.
I've yet to be let down by the instant pot, but I sure wish it wouldn't hold odors so fiercely.
I have yet to be let down by the instant pot
 
Sarah L. March 6, 2025
This is great advice. I thought I was safe making beans in the Instant Pot, but alas, my hubris got the best of me and I ended up with crunchy bean soup. Cooking beans a great reminder to take things slowly.
 

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