Each Thursday, Emily Vikre (a.k.a fiveandspice) will be sharing a new way to love breakfast -- because breakfast isn't just the most important meal of the day. It's also the most awesome.
Today: In defense of mush -- or, in other terms, pumpkin breakfast polenta.
Ladies and gentlemen, I bring you: mush!
If you find the idea of eating mush too off-putting to handle, you can call this pumpkin breakfast polenta. But, before you do that, can I first briefly come to the defense of mush? (I think The Defense of Mush may also be a little-known philosophical treatise from John Locke, but anyway.) You see, there is a difference between mushy and mush. Mushy implies that something that was supposed to have some other texture -- perhaps firm, or crispy -- has lost said preferred texture and is now mushy. Mush, on the other hand, is supposed to be mushy. Mush is mush! Mush is everything warm and fuzzy and comforting. It is the best attributes of mashed potatoes and pudding and cuddly bunny rabbits all rolled into one. It is “goodnight mush,” at the end of Goodnight Moon.
Also, in case you need any more convincing that mush has merits, may I point out that this particular mush comes from Marion Cunningham’s The Breakfast Book? I had long heard Marion spoken of in the warmest terms by a number of different people, and when it was decided I should start writing about breakfast, I thought it would be a work liability not to own my own copy of The Breakfast Book. So, I sallied forth and bought it. It’s a charming book full of classic breakfasts like pancakes and all kinds of eggs. It is also peppered with evocatively named vintage recipes like “lemon zephyrs,” “heavenly hots,” and “breakfast baps,” as well as gems of wisdom from Marion. An example: “Because everyone is defenseless at breakfast, there should be no contention or crossness.” So true.
This is actually the first recipe I’ve gotten around to trying from the book (shame on me!). It’s January, and January calls for mush. Really this mush is very much like a creamy polenta, made extra plush from pumpkin puree. Marion states that, “served hot, with a pat of butter and a spoonful of brown sugar, this is good.” May I humbly submit my own suggestion and say that served hot, with a pat of butter, some nuts and dried fruit, and a rather generous drizzle of maple syrup, this is GOOD.
Adapted from The Breakfast Book by Marion Cunningham
Makes 3 cups
2 cups milk (non-dairy milk substitutes like almond or coconut milk also work well)
1 cup puréed pumpkin
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2/3 cup coarsely ground cornmeal (grits)
1/3 cup cold water
For serving: butter, maple syrup, honey, or brown sugar, toasted nuts, dried or fresh fruit (you can also take this in a savory direction with Parmesan and eggs)
Photos by Emily Vikre
A New Way to Dinner, co-authored by Food52's founders Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs, is an indispensable playbook for stress-free meal-planning (hint: cook foundational dishes on the weekend and mix and match ‘em through the week).Order now