Irish

Cathal Armstrong on his Irish Table + Giveaway!

March 11, 2014

We're sitting down with our favorite writers and cooks to talk about their upcoming cookbooks, their best food memories, and just about anything else.

Today: In his first cookbook, My Irish TableCathal Armstrong takes us on a culinary tour of his homeland -- and gives us a recipe for mince pies. Leave a comment below, and you could score a free copy of the book!

Colcannon on Food52

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While reading through Cathal Armstrong's debut cookbook, My Irish Table, one phrase immediately jumps to mind: "the luck of the Irish." From the first page, the cookbook whisks you away to a land bursting with natural resources and people who know how to use them to their advantage. This certainly holds true for Armstrong's family of eight: From his father's backyard garden to Sunday dinners at Nana's, it's fair to say that cooking was in his blood. 

After moving to the US at age twenty, Armstrong climbed the rungs of the culinary ladder until finally opening Restaurant Eve in 2004. Following in the tradition of Irish chefs, he scoured the markets for fresh, organic ingredients. Following his father's precedent, Armstrong then planted his own garden at the restaurant. Then he upped the ante: In 2010, Armstrong created Chefs as Parents to improve school lunch programs and educate families on how to eat more fresh, local ingredients. 

My Irish Table  Cathal Armstrong on Food52

As Armstrong explains in the book's introduction, My Irish Table is more of a culinary coming of age story than a simple collection of recipes. The cookbook provides a loving look into a chronically underappreciated cuisine through the lens of the people, and the country, that taught Armstrong to truly appreciate food. Reading this cookbook is a bit like taking a trip through the rolling hills of the Emerald Isle -- one you're not quite ready to leave when you reach the end. Grab a pint of Guinness and prepare to fall in love.

Are there particular Irish ingredients, dishes, or cooking methods that don't translate over to your American audience? Any that are surprisingly popular?
One of my favorite ingredients from Ireland, which I miss dearly, is Dublin Bay Prawns. They are luxurious, super expensive, and, of course, extremely perishable. I would be willing to assume all risk to get them here in the States, but still no one will ship them to America. One dish you might be surprised by is our house-made black pudding -- it's actually very popular. I guess people are willing to try something new!

How did you strike a balance between the Irish cooking you grew up with and the American cuisine you experienced while working in the States?
My father was an excellent gardener. Growing up with a garden, and learning how to utilize it as much as we could, really shaped how I run my restaurants. I try and source from local purveyors and farmers as much as possible, and I added a garden in the back of Restaurant Eve to have access to the freshest herbs.

More: Armstrong's Corned Beef takes 17 days to make -- and it's worth every second.

Corned Beef on Food52

You're very open that the recipes in the Restaurant Eve section are not for the average home cook – why did you decide to include them in the book?
When I decided to write a cookbook, I wanted to make sure it was one that people would feel was accessible. I wanted to highlight the things that I ate growing up, things that I make pretty much as my mother made them. However, I also wanted to include a chapter to show what goes into "restaurant" dishes. That chapter, the one focused on the food of Restaurant Eve, is perfect for those who want to challenge themselves and prepare a restaurant style meal at home.

When you're feeling blue, which of your mother's comfort dishes do you crave the most? 
Chicken noodle soup. I've cured people on their deathbed with this over and over again.

More: Got a craving for chicken noodle? Here's how to make your own, without a recipe.

Chicken Noodle Soup on Food52

Your book is called My Irish Table: Recipes from the Homeland and Restaurant Eve, but it seems much more heavily weighted towards recipes from Ireland. Why did you decide against making it a purely Irish cookbook?
I wanted to make a personal cookbook book, one that is very autobiographical. I wanted to show that an Irish kid can become a successful chef in America. In that sense, it’s as much an American story as it is an Irish story -- my life belongs in both places.

In addition to your career as a chef, you're widely involved in growing the farmer's market movement, as well as putting healthier lunches in schools. Do you think you'll eventually become more of an activist than a chef?
The role of the chef has changed since I began my career in the restaurant industry. When I first started cooking, chefs were simple blue-collar workers. Now we have transformed into a community of leaders and activists. But I would not quit my career as a chef to become an activist -- being a chef is more fun. Besides, cooking professionally is one of those vocations that gets under your skin: It's more who you are than what you do.

Mincemeat Pies on Food52  Mince Pies on Food52

Mincemeat (for Mince Pies)

Makes 12 cups mincemeat, and a LOT of pies

1 pound pure white beef fat, cold
3 cups sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
10 tablespoons fresh squeezed lemon juice
4 lemons, zested
2 cups golden raisins
2 cups dried currants
1 apple, such as Bramley, Ida, or Pink Lady, peeled, cored, and coarsely grated
3/4 cup brandy
1 teaspoon mixed spruce
One 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1 1/2 cups mixed candied fruit peel, cut into 1/2-inch squares
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 pound chopped almonds
1 cup water

See the full recipe (and save and print it) here. (Then make the mincemeat into the pies.)

Soup and colcannon photos by James Ransom; all other photos by Scott Suchman

We've giving away five copies of My Irish Table! To enter, leave a comment below: What recipes do you miss from your homeland, wherever that may be? We'll pick a winner at random at the end of the week! (Unfortunately, we can only ship domestically).

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81 Comments

connieskitchen February 26, 2015
Just got an autographed copy. I'm thrilled with everything about this book
 
Megan March 23, 2014
I know its not fancy, buy my mom makes the best Shephard's Pie
 
Michael U. March 20, 2014
My mostly Irish mother is always looking for new 'authentic' Irish recipes for her fab St. Patrick's Day dinners. I'm sure there are lots of good ones in My Irish Table.
 
natalie March 14, 2014
I miss crispy super-thin crust pizza - which I didn't realize was a midwestern/Ohio thing until I moved away :(
 
Sipa March 14, 2014
I've been wanting to eat at one of his restaurants maybe instead I'll make a meal at home using his recipes.
 
Jessica M. March 13, 2014
Those pies look AMAZING! A definite must try for the weekend.
 
Elaine March 13, 2014
This looks fantastic! And man, that corned beef photo? Mustard seeds FTW every time.
 
Melanie A. March 13, 2014
This book is going on my wish list. Shame I didn't know about it earlier I could have surprised my son for his birthday.
 
sexyLAMBCHOPx March 13, 2014
I love Bubble and Squeak!
 
MJ March 13, 2014
Ham Pot Pie from Amish country
 
Winifred R. March 12, 2014
First a comment about the recipe - mixed spruce? I think that should be mixed spice, maybe?

For what I miss: lobster dinners on the cheap by buying culls (one clawed), cheese that we joked was aged under the manure pile, ice cream from the dairy, and pick your own fruits so fresh that you taste tested in the field and had the best pies, cobblers and shortcakes all summer and from frozen the rest of the year. Central New England wasn't fancy but had it's plusses.
 
sexyLAMBCHOPx March 13, 2014
I think I recall a hotline question about Spruce and its culinary uses.
 
Marissa March 12, 2014
Living abroad makes me miss my father's perfect home-made lasagna! Even the noodles themselves are hard to find where I'm at now!
 
Cayla March 12, 2014
I'm glad to say I'm fortunate enough to still be able to go home to enjoy those family recipes quite often! :)
 
Erin March 12, 2014
I'm from Kansas, the thing I miss most often when I'm away from home is good barbecue. Kansas City is known for their barbecue and there's a reason!
 
AoibhinnGrainne March 12, 2014
My forebears were mostly Irish; but my Mother's Mother was German (near what was once Prussia). Mostly, I miss Nonny's Peach Tarts. I have her recipe, but it's a killer! Almond crust, custard-y filling, peaches on top...heavy with cardamom. You can taste the Scandinavian influence. Absolutely yum and fiddley as all get-out since they are the size of a single bite. Maybe I need to try them again, now that I'm almost 60 yrs old and much more experienced than the last time my late Mum and I tried to "translate" the 100+ year-old recipe...
 
Kelly March 12, 2014
I miss a local Mexican restaurant that was affordable, easy to get to, and provided so many memories for me and my family. Food is so important to forming bonds. I would love to win a copy. Thank you for the opportunity!
 
Susan March 12, 2014
Mincemeat pie is a holiday staple in my family. Thank you for the recipe to try for next fall.
 
Cindy F. March 12, 2014
Living in Colorado, I miss Seafood. You can get it, but not very fresh. I miss lobster and scallops, but mostly I miss mussles cooked in a white wine and rosemary.
 
Christine C. March 12, 2014
I would love to add some Irish recipes to my repertoire. My husband has Irish heritage, but the only Irish food we eat is corned beef and cabbage on St. Patrick's day.
 
Bridget C. March 12, 2014
I was born here in the states but have a lot of family back in Ireland that I visit. One thing I love that they all do is say welcome home everytime I come. Its so warming to the heart! Dublin bay prawns are amazing. But what I miss most is black pudding.
 
deucemom March 12, 2014
I have always wanted to make corned beef at home. I am definitely going to try this recipe. thanks.
 
CookOnTheFly March 12, 2014
Wow! That corned beef recipe looks amazing. On one of my last trips to Dublin, I had (of all things) some of the best guacamole ever. I've had good luck finding excellent (and sometimes cheap!) food near Trinity College as many of the takeaway places cater to the college students on limited funds.
 
Aliwaks March 12, 2014
I am not Irish...not in anyway, however some of the best food I've ever had, I had in Ireland, really everything the butter, the bread even the salt was somehow perfect. I don't believe I've ever derived as much pleasure from simple Tea & Toast. And every St.Pat's i feel i cry a wee bit inside when faced with overcooked plastic tasting corned beef and those hideous Irish Potato candies.... In defense of the Ireland I know and love I bringing a Pork Roast with Cracklings... stuffed with Spring Onions with a bit of Rhubarb Chutney on the side.
 
topdawg11 March 12, 2014
I appreciate his push for farmer's markets that his dad helped foster, and his recipes reflect that.
 
luvcookbooks March 12, 2014
So happy to see a mincemeat recipe that uses beef suet! It's hard to believe how delicious the mincemeat pie will be when you make it from scratch compared to the box mix. :))
 
Victoria S. March 12, 2014
Grits from way down South!
 
CarlaCooks March 12, 2014
One thing I really miss from Ireland is Barry's Tea. You can find it in Cost Plus World Imports in the States, but it's near impossible to find here in Copenhagen. That tea beats all other morning teas!
 
pretty_pathetic March 12, 2014
I miss being able to get a good half-sour pickle.
 
tripletree March 12, 2014
Although born and bred in the USA, I also hold Irish citizenship -- my mother was from Cork. I still travel to Ireland frequently to visit my cousins and Aunts and Uncles. I just returned on Monday, and the foods that I miss most are Clonakilty Black Pudding and Drisheen (made from sheep's blood). I would love to make my own (I'm a farmer and produce sheep and pigs), but it is a struggle to talk our US butchers into saving blood from animals at slaughter. We are missing out on wonderful foods! I have one other fond food memory: crabapple jelly that my aunt made, using my grandfather's recipe -- so simple and so delicious!
 
Jean C. March 12, 2014
My mom passed away in December. As I cleaned out her freezer, I cried over the bags of tomato sauce (which had long expired) that I would never in my life taste again.
 
heyjude March 12, 2014
My grandmother's challah every Friday.
 
Richa G. March 12, 2014
Wow I can't wait to try out those pies! I'm sure that's comfort food for many, the way potato curry and puri's (Indian breakfast)is for me. I miss the hot puris my mum makes along with steaming curry and curd to cool it off.
 
Christina M. March 11, 2014
So excited about this book. Thanks Food52 for spreading the news. Restaurant Eve is one of the best restaurants here in DC!
 
gabsimonelouise March 11, 2014
Mexican food from Southern California for sure! It's not the same here in Colorado.
 
luvwords March 11, 2014
I have always wanted to try to make a mincemeat pie - can't wait to try this recipe!
 
scott.finkelstein.5 March 11, 2014
Indian pudding
 
anntruelove March 11, 2014
Egg custard snowballs.
 
anntruelove March 11, 2014
What is mixed spruce??
 
Dr R. March 11, 2014
Bangers & mash!
 
epicharis March 11, 2014
I've been in love with Eve even since I went for my 22nd birthday. Since then I've come to love the whole family (especially PX) but there's nothing like that little table by the fireplace. It's the most intimate place I know. Thank you for sharing your love of food and art with us.
 
Pegeen March 11, 2014
Irish greyhound cabbage and Irish brown bread. Given the wide variety of wheat flours available in the USA, I have yet to figure out why Irish brown flour still tastes so different. Best wishes on your new book! - Pegeen (that would be Pegín to you, Mr. Armstrong. :-)
 
russeaime March 11, 2014
I live in Michigan but am from California and the two things I miss the most are a good street taco and the wide variety of citrus you can get locally.
 
Hannah R. March 11, 2014
I love mincemeat made traditionally, but have never put spruce in it before! An inspiring idea! I am very excited about this book, having roots in that part of the world as well, and am in the process of making the corned beef!
 
lbell16 March 11, 2014
My uncle always used to make Matzoh Brei for Passover. No one else can do it as well as he used to!
 
Willamette March 11, 2014
The family recipe pierogis...I could make them myself, though I haven't seen the proper salt pork for the garnish--skwarki--since I was a child. And, of course, there is something ultimately comforting about being fed pierogi made by someone you love...
 
Alison March 11, 2014
I'm from New Jersey, grew up in Philly - now on the west coast. I miss real Italian food!
 
s_peters March 11, 2014
I love that Chef Armstrong isn't afraid of being open about the use of items such as black pudding. Too often they relegated to a back section or niche book. This book is on my list to look out for now!
 
K_Squared March 11, 2014
While we are not of Irish heritage, my husband loves Irish food & music. We're always so bummed by the Americanized versions of dishes at Irish pubs around here. The food I miss most from my "homeland" is Pennsylvania Dutch funnel cake :)
 
Meghan S. March 11, 2014
I have yet to try a mincemeat pie! It's on my to-do list. I'll have to try this recipe out :)
 
Kara March 11, 2014
For me, food is less of a place and more of the people who cook it. My grandmother was Venetian, but married PA Dutch. I miss her big Sunday dinners, whether pasta or pot pie, her recipes were so simple, but the food just doesn't taste the same without her here making it.
 
Erin March 11, 2014
I miss my mother's pot roast. She was never a cook, but those occasional dinners were so wonderful. I crave that one meal more than any other food.
 
Chrisi March 11, 2014
I'm from the Coastal South, and whenever I'm away from my "homeland" for long, among the many comfort dishes, I always miss something from my hometown called "Old Drum". It involves day-old boiled drum fish, potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, fried salt pork, and green onions all mashed together in a conglomeration that has the same tryptophan-coma-inducing effect of Thanksgiving dinner. It sounds simple enough (and probably gross to some), but it's incredible.
 
Erik T. March 11, 2014
I've only been to Ireland twice (going back again in October)- I can think of no better place to have as a second "adopted" homeland as Ireland. It feels like home - and what better way to celebrate it than making traditional fare.
 
Burf March 11, 2014
Believe it or not, mine is lutefisk. The Swedish variety from my maternal grandma was so much more delicious than the Norwegian variety from my paternal side. I wish I knew why.
 
gorboduc March 11, 2014
Pizza and bagels that aren't dreadful. And Sloppy Joes--the North Jersey variety--a triple decker deli sandwich with rye bread, coleslaw, swiss, Russian Dressing, and cold cuts (my personal preference being either tongue or turkey and ham.
 
Susan B. March 11, 2014
I leave for Dublin in 48 hours to spend St. Patrick's Day there. I'm looking forward to trying some good Irish food!
 
Michelle March 11, 2014
My grandmother was raised in the country in the midwest but was of German descent. She made her own noodles and this soup she called 'rivvel' or 'rivell' soup - I never saw it written down so I am guessing at the name. She is gone now, and I wish I would have learned how to make noodles like she did.
 
love2cook March 11, 2014
What do I miss most from the South? Truly fresh corn on the cob! My dad's philosophy was that you had to put the pot of water on and get it to a boil before you even went out to the garden to pick the corn--then you would shuck the corn as you literally ran back to the kitchen to toss it in the pot! No more than 5 minutes tops from the stalk into the pot, 8 minutes in the pot, a little real butter and salt, and you'd have heaven on earth! Even better with a side platter of fresh sliced heirloom tomatoes still warm from the sun. No farmers' market can quite replicate that.
 
alana March 11, 2014
My roots are in the South. Luckily, my folks aren't too far of a drive, but far enough that I don't get to enjoy melt-in-your-mouth buttermilk biscuits with a drizzle of honey as often as I'd like. Sometimes I get a surprise pie in the mail or some gooey cinnamon rolls; the taste brings me home instantly. Shockingly, we've only had one bad mailing incident.
 
Christine J. March 11, 2014
If people would just grow a garden. Even a small one will produce better food than most people ever taste. Just reading this made me long to go to Ireland and eat Irish food on Irish soil.
 
Madeline9 March 11, 2014
I was born in the United States but am of Chinese descent. Having been raised in Southern Virginia, I miss chicken and dumplings, along with my mom's Chinese braised beef shanks!
 
EmFraiche March 11, 2014
My homeland is not so far away as Ireland. I moved from Oklahoma to Oregon a few years ago, and boy do I miss the Tex-Mex. Portland has great tacos and great food in general, but I miss the complimentary queso and salsa and endless chips and tortillas you get at every Tex-Mex place in Oklahoma. Healthy, I know...
 
Christine March 11, 2014
I'm a first generation american. With my father from Iran (Armenian), and mother from Germany, I ate a lot of german and persian armenian food growing up. While a huge steaming plate of persian rice -- with that saffron butter crown or a perfectly buttery crisp tadig will slay me any time -- my mother's family's salatsose (a sour cream based dill-flecked vinaigrette) is by far my favorite recipe from "the homeland."
 
Anneke March 11, 2014
I miss a true Flemish Beef Stew- with real Belgian beer!
 
Oishi March 11, 2014
I'm not the least bit Scottish, but I do miss me a proper Scottish meat pie.
 
travisdoran March 11, 2014
I am home, but I miss my mom's chile verde.
 
aargersi March 11, 2014
Oh I have a few homelands - and rather than miss stuff I try to recreate it. And if I can't go to Ireland I at least want the book!!!
 
alisa S. March 11, 2014
I grew up in california but was raised in a mexican house hold. Nothing says home more than my grandmothers homemade tortillas and sopita.
 
Chris March 11, 2014
I grew up on Long Island and now live in Ohio. I miss bagels and pizza.
 
snowcitygirl March 11, 2014
I'm half Polish and a few years ago we took my grandfather back to the place of his parents birth. While driving around Poland we stopped in at one restaurant where I had this incredible white borscht soup with sausage, served in an adorable little kettle, which is now the first thing I think of when people ask about my Polish roots.
 
Greyhurst March 11, 2014
I grew up eating pastel de natas at classroom birthday parties, malasadas whenever possible, and linguiça pizza during sleepovers with friends. Although my family is from the UK/Canada, we lived in a place with a large Portuguese population: New Bedford, MA. When I go back east now I of course eat my mother's food but I also spend time exploring the bakeries and restaurants I never made it to as a kid. I've attempted bacalhau fritters and shrimp mozambique in my Los Angeles kitchen, but nothing compares the New Bedford versions.
 
henandchicks March 11, 2014
Grouper, conch fritters, Cuban sandwiches, grits served with fish instead of fries, anything bought and eaten on the beach.
 
healthierkitchen March 11, 2014
Miss NY Bagels lox, but I also love Irish soda bread with butter and smoked salmon! Love his interpretation of Irish food!
 
Annie S. March 11, 2014
I am a terrible typist...the comment below is about my Dad. He is the one who fetched the good bakery things...
 
Annie S. March 11, 2014
Hard rolls and crumb buns , still warm , bought from our local bakery and delivered to our house every Sunday morning. He got up at ^ AM and would use them to tempt us so we would get up and have breakfast with him. He worked nights all week and he never got to have breakfast with us. My home place is the place I miss...
 
Ronald M. March 11, 2014
Bagels, Grinder, Italian meatball sub
 
Gibson2011 March 11, 2014
BBQ! I'm from Kansas City and now live on the West Coast. Can't find it out here.
 
Courtney B. March 11, 2014
Simple home cooked Amish meals at my finger tips!
 
tcamp March 11, 2014
I had the best cauliflower veloute at Eve, among several delicious meals. Look forward to checking out the book!
 
simon.rodberg March 11, 2014
I miss Sunday morning bagels and lox (with a little whitefish on the side) from the Upper West Side of New York City! No matter what, they never taste the same anywhere else.