doughnut post-mortem: mis-shapen, overcooked
My second Chanukah trying to get doughnuts right. Last year the oil was too hot and they overcooked. This year, used the recipe from Flour with a soft brioche-like (I think) dough. First rise is 6-15 hours in refrigerator. I had to let it go longer due to time constraints. Recipe says to cut with a 3-1/2 to 4 inch cutter. I used 3-1/2 and even then they were too big and floppy (plus, I only had a few tablespoons left of flour, so I laid them out on parchment paper, VERY lightly dusted with flour and they really stuck). They were hard to handle and they didn't keep their shape. I used a large new seasoned cast-iron pan with perhaps only about 2" of oil (instead of 3"). Each one had a slight undercooked depression on the first side (instead of evenly puffing up). They seem to be overcooked, and crusty yet oily (and they were very hard to fill). They were sizzling away but not boiling madly so I don't think the heat was too high but I don't know; perhaps they needed a different type of pan? Next year I will cut them smaller. I filled them with crème patissiére. Are there any tips and tricks for getting a prettier, perfectly cooked doughnut?
5 Comments
Happy Chanukah and New Year!
Key to making successful deep fried food, doughnuts included, is to have plenty of oil, in a deep container, get it to and maintain right temp for cooking. (I have had great success with a deep soup pot or Dutch oven. Vertical structure gets you better depth with less oil. But, in any case, bite the bullet and be generous with the oil. I would go for the minimum 3" or more.
1) Get the oil to the right 375F temp. (Do you have a so-called candy thermometer? Long, and can be used for jam, candy, frying. Worth it.)
2) Use a deep pan. Avoid a wide frying pan because you then you need even more oil to get minimum depth, but also get more surface area to make splatters.
3) Let the raw items have plenty of space and don't fry too many at once or their combined presence will reduce the oil temp too much.
When all 3 conditions are present, the doughnuts will quickly form a crisp outer seal and cook the insides faster.
When oil temp is not hot enough to start and/or pan too crowded and oil temp drops, the batter doesn't form the outer coating, the dough absorbs more oil AND cooks more slowly.
That's probably why your doughnuts were an unlikely combination of greasy, burnt and not quite cooked through.
May also have contributed to the collapse (versus puff up) of the yeasty dough structure.
As for the recipe...I have made brioche for holidays, and they're wonderful, but not easy in their native baked state. And, I imagine, even harder to fry (with managing the butter absorption, waiting time while making the doughnuts in sequence.)
I would go for an easier, more basic dough to first master the technique, like one of the two attached - one from allrecipes site, one from Mark Bittman in nyt (each used & liked by hundreds of home cooks). Then, if you want, go back to the brioche type doughnut.
https://www.allrecipes.com/recipe/72964/super-easy-doughnuts/
https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017060-doughnuts
Hag sameach, 4 nights down, 4 to go.
Nancy
Reread your saga and noticed that you had to leave the dough longer than specified. That time period may also have contributed to the dough collapse....yeast may have expanded so much it more or less diedxand had no oomph left to expand when it hit the heat.
Next time, if you have to leave dough in fridge for long time (24 to 48 hr) punch it down about every 8 to 12 hours....thus will keep the yeast going and give better, finer texture to the dough.
https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/food/wp/2017/05/23/how-to-make-the-best-doughnuts-youll-ever-eat/
If you need to, and have the room, let those waiting get a chill on in the fridge for a few moments before they hit the oil. You don't want them cold- but you don't want them too warm. Finally, your frying method may have been a problem as well. The depth of the oil is really critical for donuts- as they really do need to swim and float in the hot stuff. You just have to concede to having a good three inches of oil, and not be tempted to use less. Also you have to resist the temptation to fry more than a few at a time, so the oil temperature doesn't drop and they are not crowded. Oil temperature is also very crucial- and it's worth it to invest in a deep frying thermometer so you can monitor the heat and adjust as needed. My favorite deep fry pan is actually an tie between a regular cast iron dutch oven and an enamel coated cast iron version. I pick depending on how much I'm frying, actually. Cast iron is wonderful for deep frying- beaten only by a really good purpose made deep fryer that lets you set temperature. The only other thing I can suggest is to make donuts with this recipe again, a few times maybe- to get the feel for how it should look and feel to work. Maybe not so good on the waistline, but you can always share- nobody complains about getting a donut. Then when Chanuhka comes again, you will be a dap hand at making them and the hit of the feast.