What makes olive oils taste different from each other? Like is the Italian oil so different from the Greek? And why?
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What makes olive oils taste different from each other? Like is the Italian oil so different from the Greek? And why?
19 Comments
Pierino made a good point about olive oil fraud, and that is a huge problem now, but my advice for buying olive oil that is real extra virgin olive oil is to find a trusted source.
There are amazing California olive oils (that are California Olive Oil Council certified extra virgin) like Sèka Hills, Pacific Sun and Bondolio. But there are also great extra virgin olive oils that are indeed still extra virgin coming from Spain and Italy - try to buy them from stores that have actual relationships with the producers and have olive oil programs like Market Hall Foods (www.markethallfoods.com). Great Italian picks: Tenuta di Capezzana, Tondo DOP and Crudo. As far as Spain, I second As Pontis and would add Castillo de Canena Picual to the list.
I learn a lot from those who share their detailed knowledge and personal preferences. If my preferences (taste, cost, availability, etc.) line up with theirs, I favor their answers.
Don't like the writer's tone? Don't take them seriously. No need to quietly shame anybody, it's hard to interpret tone through text alone.
That's the second vote I've heard for Les Mouilns Mahjoub. My ears are pricked and I thank you.
Pero algo hay indiscutible el mejo aceite es el español. Aceite virgen extra de oliva. Olé.
You can love TJ's for whatever reason but at least read the lit on the subject. US produced oils are simply more reliable and subject to penalties if they are not what they say they are.
Another important reason to choose California over most imports is that a couple of years back UC Davis---home to the experts on the topic---discovered that many Italian and Spanish oils were not in fact extra virgin but in fact had lesser grades blended in. There's nothing wrong with blending oil if you label it as such. For imports I would consider French oils first. For California I recommend California Olive Ranch. They are a large scale producer so their oils are easier to find. But the smaller producers in the Napa/Sonoma and Paso Robles regions of California are outstanding if you can source them. We Olive carries some. And if you want good oil stay away from Trader Joes or any bottle that has Rachel Ray's name on it.
Personally for general cooking use that doesn't require high heat, I use a 2.5 or 3 L tin of Zoe Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Spain because it's by far the best price at about $30-35 per tin, but the Costco in-house brand Kirkland Organic also sources excellent extra virgin oil. In the past I've also used Saloio and Vitor Guedes 3L tins when I could pick them up from Newark grocers.
For finishing oils - I absolutely love Estepa Virgen from Oleoestepa, a co-op in the town of Estepa in the Sevilla region - this is a blend of four olive varietals, two of which are somewhat unique to the the SW corner of Andalucia's olive triangle.
As Pontis Vieiru is another excellent oil made with 100% Manzanilla Cacereña olives, native to the community of Extremadura, one of the best delicate oils with the elusive banana and cucumber-ish top notes that only exist in the freshest pressings. As Pontis also powers their mill with biogas from waste olive kernels.
I also recommend any of the oils from Agraria Riva del Garda in Trentino, Italy. These are the highest latitude olive groves in the world - they use 100% Casaliva olives, a variety native to the Lake Garda Region and Lombardia. Absolutely fantastic pairing with beef and venison. Mine likes to go in aioli and on sandwiches too.
Darkened or opaque container
Harvest date (not Best By, which can be at least two years from packaging)
Labels with "varietal" olives or flavor profiles (hinting that they didn't randomly dump the cheapest olives in the press)
The easiest way to taste for freshness of the oil is to sip directly and wait a few moments for a peppery burn in the back of your throat (caused by the phenol "Oleocanthal", if you're curious).
Personally, I find the hype over different olive oils to be over-the-top, but I worked in the EVOO/balsamic vinegar business for short time. I'd memorize the different flavor profiles of various olive varietals and found this list handy: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_olive_cultivars
Olives are an agricultural product with variations not incomparable to different kinds of apples. It can be fun to taste around those cute shops and see the different tasting notes. Fancy schmancy stuff. :)