Vietnamese

How to Master the Delicate Balance of Vegetarian Pho Broth

March  9, 2016

Vegetarian pho is a delicate matter, a very different thing from its traditional, non-vegetarian counterpart. Without the safety net that meat provides in body and flavor, there’s less wiggle room in the balancing act.

If you're not careful, vegetarian pho can be top-heavy, the broth overloaded with sweetness. But what meat and vegetable broths have in common is that they are the beating heart of a bowl of pho. Everything else is an accessory.

With much trial and error, I've developed a vegetarian broth recipe that's not too sweet: It's intoxicating, fortifying, and delicious enough to eat on its own.

Photo by Bobbi Lin

The first step—blistering onions and ginger—is common, and important. It brings a deeper ginger and onion flavor, as well as a bit of astringency.

It can be done over the flames of a gas burner, but I always use the broiler so that I can cook a lot at once. Spread everything out on a foil-lined baking sheet, then cook as close to the flame as possible, flipping with tongs as necessary until charred all over.

Photo by Bobbi Lin

And then into a stock pot they go, along with some familiar vegetable stock items—carrots, leeks, garlic—and some less familiar ones—daikon radish, bruised lemongrass, star anise, fennel seed, cinnamon sticks—to be covered generously with water and left to simmer until the flavors sing. Here, the daikon helps to lower that sweetness dial, as do a handful of dried shiitake mushrooms. Then, for the last few minutes, I add a handful of cilantro stems, which bring a hit of fresh and herbaceous.

After about an hour of simmering, maybe less but not much more, it’s time to strain the broth. It loses its fresh flavor rather quickly, so if I don’t plan to use it immediately, I stash it away in the freezer as soon as it’s cool.

Photo by Bobbi Lin

Right before I’m ready to assemble the pho—when the noodles are cooked and rinsed, the vegetable fillings prepped, the herbs plucked—I reheat the broth, then season it with salt and sugar, bit by bit, until all the flavors zip into focus.

Lukas Volger is the author of three cookbooks. His most recent, Bowl: Vegetarian Recipes for Ramen, Pho, Bibimbap, Dumplings, and Other One-Dish Meals, was published this week.

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2 Comments

Valhalla March 9, 2016
Vegetarian pho is one of those things that just makes me so happy to be a vegetarian--I don't feel like I could possibly be missing a thing with all that flavor. Congrats on the book--mine arrived yesterday!
 
Author Comment
LukasVolger March 10, 2016
Thank you! And I agree (obviously) - vegetarian pho is such a special dish.