The Case for Faux Meat

June 29, 2016

There’s a new trend in vegan restaurants: Many are declaring themselves “vegetable-centric,” or their menus “vegetable-focused.” You may be wondering how vegan food could be anything other than vegetable-centric: Aren’t vegetables most of what vegans eat? The contrast being suggested here, I think, is that these eateries focus on vegetables rather than on tofu, tempeh, and seitan (the holy vegan trinity of “meaty” foods) or faux meats.

In my almost ten years as a vegan, I’ve seen a shift in how faux meats are regarded. Even as the products themselves get better and better—more creative, more wholesome, better tasting—there seems to be some new, or perhaps some continuing, discomfort around them in the vegan community. When I first went vegan, faux meats and other vegan products (like non-dairy butter or milk) seemed to be embraced and celebrated as a happy convenience, the way one might celebrate a new, time-saving appliance. We didn’t need them, but wasn’t it great that someone had invented them anyway, to make life a little easier?

Lately, though, faux meats are often mentioned with some sort of guilty or quasi-guilty disclaimer. Recently, I had lunch with a vegan friend who was telling me that she occasionally likes to eat a particular brand of faux-chicken salad (a product I practically lived off of as a vegetarian college student). She told me this in hushed tones and with a guilty grin, as though admitting to something far more illicit than a little seitan and faux mayonnaise. Likewise, when mention is made of a vegan product in blogs or cookbooks, you might often find a qualification: “I don’t eat faux meats often, but…”

Discomfort around faux meats isn’t just felt among vegans themselves. It’s embedded in the way vegan diets are perceived.

I should know. I make those kinds of disavowals myself, and I sort of hate that I do it.

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Discomfort around faux meats isn’t just felt among vegans themselves. It’s embedded in the way vegan diets are perceived, too. I’d guess that many vegans have become bashful about faux meat more out of self-consciousness than because they’ve lost a taste for the products. And I can’t tell you how often an omnivore will say to me, “Oh yeah, I like vegan food. But how do you feel about those fake meats? I don’t like those. If you want chicken, just eat chicken.”

I greet these comments with mixed emotions. On the one hand, I’m glad that the fundamentals of vegan cuisine—fruits, vegetables, legumes, and grains—are being acknowledged as satisfying in their own right. Vegan food is plenty rewarding and nutritious without faux meats, and if people would rather eat a dinner of rice and beans or some hearty legume stew than a vegan chik’n cutlet, that’s cool.

At the same time, these comments miss an important point, which is that adhering to a vegan diet isn't always a matter of culinary preference. “If you want chicken, just eat chicken” implies that all vegans abstain from eating poultry (or meat, or dairy) because we don’t care for it, and we’d rather be eating plant foods instead. This is certainly true for those who have gravitated toward a plant-based lifestyle because they genuinely prefer the food. It might also be true for vegans who are motivated primarily by health considerations.

There are, however, some vegans who have always loved meat and will always love meat, but they choose not to eat it out of a sense of moral imperative. For these individuals, faux meats can be a source of pleasure and comfort, a way of enjoying beloved tastes and textures without making ethical compromises. To dismiss the value of vegan products—be it vegan butter, faux meat, or melty vegan cheese—is to diminish the fact that some vegans genuinely miss and crave the foods that these products try to replicate.

I think of a vegan friend of mine who, in spite of having abstained from meat for over 20 years of his life, tells me that he’s never stopped loving it. “I’d eat steak in a heartbeat,” he says, “if I thought it was the right thing to do.”

Of course, vegans don’t fall into strict either/or categories when it comes to faux meats. Most of us exist someplace on a spectrum that ranges from not craving animal foods at all to craving certain ones, sometimes. I don’t miss beef, and so I’m not in a rush to try some of the new, highly authentic vegan burgers out there (in fact, the idea of beet “jus” makes me feel squeamish). But I never lost my taste for poultry, and I genuinely enjoy faux chicken strips. And when it comes to baking, I’m the first to say that most things are possible with coconut or canola oil. But vegan buttery spread makes icing and cookies undeniably better.

Faux meats and dairy products are also a matter of convenience. Many vegans are enthusiastic home cooks, but some aren’t, and for them, having faux meats and other products is a boon—especially if they happen to live in an area where vegan takeout options are limited. The convenience of faux meat or other vegan products can appeal even to those of us who do love to cook; I always keep frozen veggie burgers in my fridge as an emergency dinner or lunch option, and soy yogurt is a favorite on-the-go breakfast.

So why do I still feel some unease when I suggest soy curls as an addition to vegan chili, or if I want to mention that vegan chicken strips can make a killer filling for enchiladas?

It goes back to public perception. I never want to imply that the vegan lifestyle must be predicated on the use of commercial items that may or may not be affordable, easy to locate, or appealing to everyone. When I wrote the introduction to Food52 Vegan, I noted that, at its heart, vegan food is just food. What I meant is that the foundation of veganism is simple and accessible: fruits, vegetables, legumes, grains, nuts, and seeds. With these ingredients, one can create an amazingly abundant, healthful, and enjoyable diet. But it’s okay for a couple of smart and convenient grocery products to serve as icing on the proverbial vegan cake.

For flexitarians and those who dabble in plant-based cooking, I don’t know that vegan products will ever feel urgent. Last summer, Food52 Managing Editor Kenzi Wilbur told me that she just can’t wrap her mind around nut cheese, and I understood why: If goat cheese is an option, why would cashew cheese feel necessary or appealing? Likewise, if you eat animal foods, the appeal of a faux chicken cutlet or a shockingly authentic faux-beef burger will probably always be limited at best.

But if you’re looking to eliminate animal products entirely, whether for ethical, health, environmental, or religious reasons, then there’s a lot to be said for faux meats and dairy foods. They don't have to be a constitutive part of any vegan’s diet, and I’d argue that some of the greatest thrills of vegan cooking lie in discovering how many favorite dishes can be created with the humble combination of legumes, nuts, seeds, and vegetables.

I’d also argue, however, that there is a particular kind of thrill in eating a product that brings back the texture and taste of something you remember fondly with perfect authenticity—a kind of authenticity you might not be able to master at home (because no matter how many amazing things I can create with lentils, I will never nail the exact texture of chicken). And that makes faux meats worth considering, especially since they’re so good nowadays. Be vegetable-focused, for sure. But keep an open mind; vegan products are getting more ingenious with every passing year, and one or two of them might be for you.

Gena Hamshaw is a vegan chef and nutritionist—and the author of our Vegan cookbook! You can read more of her writing here.

What's your take on faux meat products—yay or nay? Why? Make your case in the comments.

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Gena is a registered dietitian, recipe developer, and food blogger. She's the author of three cookbooks, including Power Plates (2017) and Food52 Vegan (2015). She enjoys cooking vegetables, making bread, and challenging herself with vegan baking projects.


Michelle B. July 5, 2016
While I'm not a vegetarian or vegan, I personally love meatless meat. Like a few other people said, it offers an easy, tasty substitute for meat that helps me to cut down my animal protein consumption significantly. I think the products on the market now taste good, so I often opt them in all kinds of recipes. And vegan dairy substitutes last way longer in the fridge if you don't finish milk, etc. that quickly.
Diane L. July 4, 2016
An interesting article. I'm primal, which is a subset of paleo, so I of course eat meat. What bothers me about fake meats is what someone else already said... they are exceedingly processed. I wouldn't say they're as bad as fast food, but it's close. The only exception might be tempeh, if it's made via traditional methods. But how do you know? And I think all the healthy eaters out there, be they vegan or paleo, are eschewing processed foods. So uneasiness with meat substitutes s understandable.
mlink915 July 4, 2016
We need not forget that meat, whether 'real' or faux is all processed. The distinction between the two is simply the processing of plants by a living, sentient being, or a machine. The choice is ours!
Ttrockwood July 4, 2016
There are certainly ways to make faux meats at home with just vital wheat gluten, water, and flavorings- newer companies such as Uptons Naturals offer products made from a relatively short list of "real " food such as their chicken seitan which includes
"Water, vital wheat gluten, chickpea flour, whole wheat flour, soy sauce (water, wheat, soybeans, salt), nutritional yeast, sea salt, garlic, onion". Certainly not comparable to fast food. And for myself infinitely preferable to eating any "unprocessed" animal products.
Susan S. July 4, 2016
I was amazed no one mentioned the most obvious reason for not eating faux meats.....they are processed foods. Plain and simple. So the reason most vegans or vegetarians are embarrassed to say they eat them is because its like admitting to fast food. No one wants to do it. In that vain, I think its ok to eat them, just not as a staple.
Helen B. July 4, 2016
There are other ways of looking at this, of course, and one is that the science of food has created some phenomenal edibles! I do eat tofu and tempeh and don't consider it, ever, to be a meat substitute; instead it is a texture, or a marinating medium, that can add dimension to a meal. These foods are made from plant sources, and should not be admitted to with guilt.
Ttrockwood July 3, 2016
I have been vegetarian for about 25 years now, and am enthusiastic about how widely available faux meat products are- but because for so many years there was no such thing i just made do without.
i do buy meatless balls from trader joe's with some frequency, and sporadically the soyrizo.

What i support and am the most enthusiastic about is that so many faux meat customers are actually not vegetarian or vegan- and i think that every single time anyone has a kind meatless meal that is step in the right direction.
Gena H. July 6, 2016
Such a good point--a lot of folks who purchase faux meats are actually not plant-based eaters, but rather exploring plant-based food for any number of reasons, and I agree that this is great news!
bellw67 July 1, 2016
If I can find faux meat that tastes good, I'm all for it. I'm not vegan but cook vegan for family members, and enjoy it. I manage most times to come up with a pretty good menu, but it helps that there are substitutes for meat, eggs, cheeses and dairy that I can use that taste pretty darned good.
702551 June 29, 2016
Disclaimer: I am not a vegan nor vegetarian, although my normal meat/fish consumption is quite low.

Personally, I think there is a legitimate case for faux meat because these are products that largely cannot be duplicated by home vegan/vegetarian cooks who lack the specialized commercial equipment and industrial processes to manufacture these items.

As for flavor, that's really up to the individual. As I've mentioned occasionally in the Hotline, it's really your call. It's your table, you're the one who is going to eat it, whether it's a string bean from a can or something picked from the garden.
i June 29, 2016
I couldn't agree more. I've been vegan for almost seven years and have observed the brave new world of meat/dairy/egg replacement options unfold. This is diametrically opposed to the vegetable-centric way of eating that's been popularized by Ottlenghi and others. I used to avoid processed faux meats whenever possible, but have learned that they have their time and place (cupcakes with Earth Balance frosting are the closest I've found to buttercream and cookouts are way less awkward when you're eating a veggie burger or sausage rather than some completely different meal).

A lot of people talk smack about faux meat products before they try them. I don't advocate for eating soy-based protein alternatives every day, but I think if it helps people eat a little less meat because it brings comfort and familiarity, then it's accomplishing something positive. Also, you're totally right that ethical, health, environmental, or religious reasons come into play.

Anyway, haters gonna hate and I'm gonna eat my chik'n strips. Thanks for writing this, Gena!
Queen O. June 29, 2016
I've been a vegetarian (but not vegan) for over 40 years. I love animals and can see no difference between my pets and a cow or chicken. Fake meat makes me just as nervous as the real stuff - I find the texture icky. Many years ago we were at a fair and the smell of corn dogs made us a bit nostalgic...until we realized it was really the smell of the condiments we were reacting to!