Poaching a single egg is an accomplishment worthy of praise. I didn't poach my first egg until I had: lived for at least two decades on this earth, wasted a half-dozen or so, shed many a tear. Some of my colleagues at Food52 have admitted that it's a skill that still eludes them (or, for those who have yet to even try, so they assume).
But once you've poached an egg (perhaps via the "control-freak method" à la Amanda Hesser or the more freewheeling Ottolenghi technique), you might be wondering how to
show off to all of your friends poach a lot at once, maybe for a brunch party with eggs Benedict or because it momentarily slipped your mind that are so many easier ways to serve eggs to a crowd... (see below as evidence).
Regardless of why you need to poach a lot of eggs, you'll find plenty of tips for cooking multiple eggs at once (or individual eggs in record time!) on the web. So we decided to put these methods to the test. Once and for all!
And what we found was surprising, erring on the side of disappointing: The most widely-circulated tip—poach 12 eggs at once... in the oven... in a muffin tin...—did not work. (The approach that did work? That can be credited to J. Kenji López-Alt of Serious Eats—less of a surprise there!)
Below, we'll break down what we tried and how it went. You can also skip straight to the success story if you'd like a happy ending.
This "kitchen hack" has made the rounds: Food & Wine called it "The Insanely Easy Way to Poach a Dozen Eggs at Once"; The Kitchn declared its "Verdict: This is a mind-blowing tip!"; and Lifehacker republicized the content ("With this technique you can make enough eggs to easily serve at a brunch or other event.")
Here, supposedly, is how:
Plus, the following visual proof!
But after three rounds of testing, I'm honestly not sure how the team over at F&W got the eggs to look so appetizing in the video. Because the eggs I made using this method (three times!) were—and I'm not going to mince words here—revolting. (In the Today Show segment that features this tip, the eggs themselves are not a focal point. The skeptic in me knows why.)
For one thing, it's really hard to tell when the eggs are finished; I checked them every minute after 8 minutes yet couldn't bring myself to pull them before 14, as the whites remained gunky and only half-opaque. Part of the difficulty is that the water you pour into each cup rises to the surface of the egg, making it appear liquidy even as it hard-cooks.
Second, the yolk is bare-breasted to the harsh heat of the oven. Even if the protected inside were to remain somewhat soft (which it did not), the outside layer puckers and dries.
And finally, it's about as hard as a game of Operation to dislodge the eggs from their muffin cradles without completely destroying them. PureWow recommends spraying the non-stick muffin pan with cooking oil, but it made me nervous to add an oil, however "neutral-flavored," to such a pure-tasting food.
In the end, I had rubbery whites with the texture of a bouncy ball; solidly chalky yolks; and 12 eggs in various pieces that I wasn't quite sure what to do with (egg salad: yes; eggs Benedict: no way).
I also tried lowering the temperature and baking the eggs at 250° F for 20 minutes, hoping that would remedy the problem. The low-temp eggs were softer and more jiggly, closer to poached eggs in texture—yet just as difficult (if not more so) to remove from the tin. I injured most in the process. The oven also doesn't cook very evenly (maybe a convection setting would fix this issue?), which meant that some eggs were more done than others.
The editors at PureWow said that in "terms of taste and texture, we couldn’t tell the difference" between muffin tin eggs and poached eggs. For me, I'm not sure I'd be mistake the muffin-egg as a poached egg even if it bounced off my face.
In the end: What's popular is not always right; and what's right (poaching eggs in simmering liquid, as the egg gods intended) is not always popular.
For instructions on how to do the obvious—poach as normal, but add in more than one egg—I turned to a Hotline thread on the same subject. Queen of Spoons answered with such confidence that I was sure I would be able to follow her directions:
Fill a large nonstick skillet (which I have very lightly oiled) with cool water, only enough to cover the eggs by about an inch. Bring to steady simmer and add vinegar. Crack each egg into a small dish and slide it into the water, pouring towards the outside edge of the pan. I do six.
Excuse me while I interrupt: Six (!!) eggs at the same time! A true feat.
As soon as the whites begin to firm up, I carefully slide a slotted spoon under them to make sure they are not sticking to the pan. When whites are fully opaque, but yolks still seem liquid-y, remove to paper towels sitting on a cooling rack. (The thing I hate most about poached eggs is when they haven't been drained properly and the water makes everything soggy.) Then do the next round and repeat.
They can be held for a bit here and if needed briefly returned to water to warm before service.
I have confidence that this technique really does work if you're a master egg-poacher, which I am not. As a measly intermediate poacher, I found it very intimidating to add six eggs to a pot of just-hot-enough-but-not-too-hot water, then nudge them at the precise right moment of readiness and remove them at the precise right moment of doneness. In my mind, it was a lot like parenting. Maybe not exactly—but it was a great amount of responsibility, and I didn't end up getting it right. Two eggs were casualties to the water.
I'd rather wake up three hours earlier and poach each egg one by one than choose to undertake this challenge before the arrival of brunch guests.
While this method produces one egg rather than a big batch, it does so at the speed of
light microwaves, which means you could zap egg after egg (holding the finished ones in a bath of cool water) until your guests arrive. Almost no clean-up. Almost no stress!
"For Perfectly Poached Eggs," the Bon Appétit headline reads, "the Microwave is Your Friend." They're fast, hands-off poached eggs—and "perfect" ones, too!
The method is simple:
Microwaving the egg worked—it's true. But perfectly? I wouldn't say so. The whites were a little snotty, the yolk a bit bug-eyed. The whole thing was as fragile as a water balloon and slid across my plate leaving a snail-like trail.
Would I make this for myself in a desperate time? Yes. Would I ask guests to eat it (and would I spend many minutes in front of the microwave so that I had enough to serve to the masses)? No.
The winning method of poaching eggs for a crowd comes from Kenji of Serious Eats who, ingeniously, uses a collapsible steamer basket.
Here's how the winner does it:
Once you've got a pile of poached eggs, you can hold them for up to five days: Let the poached eggs chill out in a bowl cool water as you cook as many as you need. Then place them in plastic containers, cover with more cool water, and store in the fridge. To reheat, Kenji suggests letting the eggs sit in very hot tap water for about 2 minutes, then re-blotting with a paper towel.
If you don't need to store the eggs for an extended period of time and are planning to serve them, say, later in the hour, you could also try slightly under-poaching the eggs, then storing them in a covered bowl of very hot water until it's time to eat.
What's the most annoying dish to make for a crowd? Tell us in the comments below!