Holiday

The Definitive Genius Recipes Thanksgiving Menu

The cranberry sauce and mash and pie I make every year—and the never-not-juicy turkey with more than 600 rave reviews.

November  6, 2019

Every week in Genius Recipes—often with your help!—Food52 Creative Director and lifelong Genius-hunter Kristen Miglore is unearthing recipes that will change the way you cook.


"We're going to need a genius turkey," my bosses Amanda & Merrill told me in 2011. We were planning recipes for the Food52 Holiday iPad app, just a few months after my Genius Recipes column had flapped out of the nest. What did I know about genius turkey?

So I set out on Google, fumbling around for any recipe with a compelling technique. Pretty soon I landed on an L.A. Times story by then-Food Editor Russ Parsons about the Judy Bird—and then another, and another. He had written about the same astonishingly simple Judy Rodgers-inspired pre-salting (aka dry-brining) technique in the newspaper five years in a row, only adding small tweaks and updates.

It's as if Parsons had seen the future and thought, "Oh, I'll show you a genius turkey." (600+ happy Food52 commenters, often tasting their first juicy, well-seasoned turkey, agree.)

We're going to need a genius turkey.
food52 co-founders amanda & merrill

With each passing year, I've tackled another Thanksgiving staple or two, the cranberry sauce and green beans, the more elusive mashed potato (both for the Genius Recipes archives, and my family's own menu—sorry, Grandmother), and my collection is complete! Below is my personal ideal of a Genius Thanksgiving, though of course you can feel free to shop around to design your own.

But if you're just looking for a sure thing, this menu—like its anchor, the trusty Judy Bird—is likely to become a yearly tradition, and will never let you down.


a soup & a salad

The soup is vegan; the salad has 2 kinds of cheese. Go figure.

1. Paul Bertolli's Cauliflower Soup

If you're going to tack a soup onto the must-make Thanksgiving roster, it should not eat like a meal. It should be light and comforting, with a weightless creaminess that doesn't come from cream or butter or crème fraîche. (It comes from cauliflower and ... water.) Extra points for being a good "Can you believe it??" conversation starter and something that includes the vegans and gluten-free and paleos just as it is.

2. Northern Spy's Kale Salad

Kale salads may no longer be the novelty they were back in 2012 when this recipe first earned its Genius Recipes badge (and Northern Spy restaurant sadly closed in 2016), but this recipe is still one of the simplest and best. There's no need to massage the kale leaves, whatever that really means, and the dressing is just lemon juice and olive oil, with just-right amounts of two kinds of salty cheese.


the turkey

3. Russ Parsons' Dry-Brined Turkey (aka The Judy Bird)

This is the juicy, perfectly-seasoned, crispy-skinned, Thanksgiving-saving turkey that made the L.A. Times Food Section stop in its tracks and say "Oh, let's just keep doing this." (Same.) And all because you salted the turkey three days ahead (even when it was defrosting—you can do that!) Side note: Dry-brined turkeys cook extra fast, so check it early and (yay!) make room for all those pies.


the sides

Everything else I want on my table, save the important omission of gravy—but you don't need a recipe for gravy.

4. Diane Morgan's Classic Mashed Potatoes

These mashed potatoes are utterly simple and the ingredient list is probably no different than what you would have put on your grocery list from memory. But thanks to a bit of clever food scientist intel from Shirley Corriher, Diane Morgan developed a more buttery-tasting mashed potato without any extra butter.

5. Thomas Keller's Leek Bread Pudding

Technically this was never featured in the Genius Recipes column, in case you eagle eyes were counting, but after my colleague Kenzi Wilbur shared the recipe she makes every Thanksgiving, I had to have it. There will never be dry or bland stuffing when Thomas Keller, two cups of leeks, and a not-insignificant amount of cream are in the house.

6. Michel Richard's Glazed & Glistening Haricots Verts

We put green beans through a whole lot. Even when we're not submerging them in cream of mushroom soup and frizzled onions, we're often blanching them and washing all their green-beaniness away. Instead, you can quick-braise the raw beans in a skillet with the stock and butter and garlic that will encourage them taste to taste better, without losing themselves.

7. Canal House's Cranberry-Port Gelée

In my family, it isn't Thanksgiving unless there's a good jiggly cranberry sauce that can hold the shape of a can. But I hadn't realized until discovering this recipe how easy it is to make such a jiggler yourself (just simmer and squish, really)—plus you can then spike the sauce with other grown-up flavors like port and juniper berries.

8. Jessica Fechtor's Five-Fold Challah

Warm homemade bread is the most optional and yet most appreciated part of the meal, and Jessica Fechtor's formula for mostly hands-off challah makes for the pillowiest, pull-apart texture (even if you've never made bread before). Fashion them into true dinner rolls if you like, or just pass the gorgeous braided loaf like it's no big deal. Either way, you're looking at a serious upgrade to your day-after turkey sandwiches.


For dessert

The cake and pie are century-ish-old classics; the whipped cream is swift and modern.

9. Meta Given's Pumpkin Pie

The easiest way to make your pumpkin pie taste richer and more deeply of pumpkin is to caramelize the pumpkin—which sounds fancy, but all you're really doing is emptying your can of pumpkin puree into a saucepan and steaming off some of the excess water, while scraping the bottom here and there. (It's so wet that it magically deglazes itself for awhile before it starts to really stick.) Plus, swapping cream in for the typical milk and baking in a cold, unbaked pie shell means that you can blast your pie at higher heat and cook it in half the time.

10. Teddie's Apple Cake

We still don't know who Teddie is (do you?) but we know that she or he made the world's most lovable tall, craggy apple cake. As an oil-based cake, it will keep better than its butter-based friends, a boon for all the full, happy people toting slices home.

11. Nancy Silverton's Whipped Cream

Adding crème fraîche (or sour cream) to your whipped cream won't just make you a fancy person, but also a person whose whipped cream holds up better when whipped ahead—and tastes tart, clean, and smooth against all the sweet things on the table.


the day-after piles

Your next-day secret weapons: tamed alliums (bacony quick-poached garlic cloves in the salad, softened scallions in the fritters).

12. The Silver Palate's Turkey Hash Salad

There will be turkey. So much turkey. To bring some pep to your next several dinners, add lots of greens, vinaigrette, bacon, and (twist!) bacon-poached garlic cloves.

13. Bert Greene's Potato Scallion Cakes (Fritterra)

I don't want to tell you how long it took for me to find a Genius Recipe for leftover mashed potatoes that explicitly accepted the mashed potatoes just as they are, with whatever buttermilk or herbs or caramelized onions you might have snuck in there. (Potato doughnuts don't always want those!) And, in finding this gem, I also discovered the joy of treating scallions not just as a garnish or even as an onion but as a legitimate green vegetable. Here they're blanched and chopped before filing in with your whatever-potatoes to brighten your breakfast the morning after the feast.

Got a genius recipe to share—from a classic cookbook, an online source, or anywhere, really? Perhaps something perfect for beginners? Please send it my way (and tell me what's so smart about it) at [email protected].

This article first ran in 2016, but we've updated it in honor of Food52's 10th Anniversary and added a new Judy Bird photo and video. Little did we know Jacques Pépin would stop by to carve it for us!

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See what other Food52 readers are saying.

  • noons
    noons
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    dillonai
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Comment
I'm an ex-economist, ex-Californian who moved to New York to work in food media in 2007. Dodgy career choices aside, I can't help but apply the rational tendencies of my former life to things like: recipe tweaking, digging up obscure facts about pizza, and deciding how many pastries to put in my purse for "later."

9 Comments

noons November 13, 2019
would you adapt the dry brine recipe if using a Kosher (pre-salted) turkey?
 
dillonai November 6, 2019
This looks great. Could you give a reasonable timeline for the preparation of the various courses (over 1-3days) to reduce the stress on TG Day itself. Thanks!
 
Author Comment
Kristen M. November 10, 2019
I would definitely make the soup and cranberry sauce a few days ahead, as well as dry-brine the turkey and make the pie dough. Lots of other prep could be done a day or two ahead and stored in the fridge or at room temp, depending on the ingredient, like washing, drying, and chopping the kale (I like to store my ready-to-go salad greens in the salad spinner if there's room, otherwise in a clean, damp towel in a Tupperware or zippered bag) and prepping the other vegetables, cubing and staling the bread, etc. For any other details, I'd recommend consulting the recipe pages or the Food52 Hotline. Hope this helps!
 
Eric K. November 6, 2019
The Cranberry-Port Gelée sounds divine. Think I'll try that this year.
 
Brette W. December 21, 2016
I can't believe it's been 5 years. You're a champ.
 
Pisanella November 9, 2016
THE DAY-AFTER PILES

OMG, I am still laughing my head off at this! They sound painful!
 
Jovan November 2, 2016
For one second I read "Jessica Fechtor" as "Jessica Fletcher", and momentarily reveled in the idea of a Murder, She Wrote-themed cooking series. Equally, if not more exciting: five-fold challah. Yum!
 
AntoniaJames November 2, 2016
Those Fritterra squarely fall into the "unsung hero" category of recipes on this site. We aren't big mashed potatoes eaters, so I make them on the weekends (doubling and freezing 1/2, of course), just for this recipe! I have some in the fridge, in fact, awaiting transformation tomorrow evening. ;o)
 
Brenda S. November 9, 2016
I'm with you - I'd choose a crispy-skinned baked potato over mashed anytime (mashed potatoes are a vehicle for gravy LOL), but curious - is the texture affected by freezing the mashed potatoes? I don't imagine it matters for the Fritterra, but would be a great time saver for the other in my house who wants mashed all the time.