Dessert

Braising Fruit Is the Dessert Hack You Didn’t Know You Needed

Because savory foods aren't the only braise-worthy dishes.

Sponsored
February  3, 2022
Photo by MJ Kroeger. Prop Stylist: Alya Hameedi. Food Stylist: Lauren LaPenna.

We’ve teamed up with Le Creuset to highlight one of our favorite ways to use their 3.5-Quart Braiser: making braised desserts. Le Creuset has been producing their handcrafted cookware—from Enameled Cast-Iron Braisers to their signature Dutch Ovens—in France since 1925, and each piece is guaranteed to last a lifetime.


There’s a reason braising is such a popular cooking method. Without too much effort or money, vegetables and proteins become tender and supple, making a glossy, rich sauce as they cook. Even the most timid cook can eyeball a braise by following a few general guidelines and still see stellar results. It’s a classic minimal effort, maximum reward situation, and the original “set it and forget it” dish.

If this accessible alchemy works wonders on savory dishes (think: buttery braised leeks and braised Moroccan chicken), it only seems logical to apply it to dessert—I’m a pastry chef so I’m never not thinking about dessert. When applied to firm fruit, the same techniques you’d use for a savory dish and a top-notch braiser, like one from Le Creuset (my favorite's their 3.5-Quart Braiser for braising fruit) will impart the same silky suppleness on your sweet variations. Fruits like peaches, cherries, and apples will soak up wine, cider, or liquor mixed with aromatics while you relax over dinner.

My formula for braising fruit is a non-recipe recipe with no babysitting required. Dessert is ready when you are—in all its syrupy, saucy, glossy, understated luxury. Spoon into bowls and top with cool dairy, the paramour to warm, velvety fruit. They mingle and melt into each other, a balance of contrasting temperatures, sweetness, and acidity.

Photo by MJ Kroeger. Prop Stylist: Alya Hameedi. Food Stylist: Lauren LaPenna.

The Dos & Don'ts of Braising Fruit

Sweet or savory, the approach is the same, with some clear cut dos and don’ts for braised fruit success. Do choose firmer fruits that won’t break down into a mushy compote when cooked. My favorites are apples, quince, pears, pineapple, and studier stone fruits like whole pitted cherries and peaches. Don’t use berries or whole citrus and melon because they’ll break down when braised. Peel the fruit, or not, whatever floats your boat (with the exception of quince and pineapple, which should always be peeled). Scoop out seeds and remove pits, but don’t worry about things being too perfect; this is a rustic dish so don’t waste time with too much slicing or dicing.

Do sear large pieces of fruit in fat over high heart to start, just like a savory braise. Heat your braiser over medium-high heat, then add butter and let it sizzle and start to brown. Once butter is hot, sear the fruit in the butter to caramelize, about three minutes on each side or until golden brown. Le Creuset’s Braisers are ideal for this task because of their wide surface area and consistent heat distribution, thanks to the iconic enamel cast iron we all know and love. You’ll be able to sear and caramelize all the fruit at once, as the butter gradually browns, imparting a cozy nuttiness along with a gorgeous color when it comes time to serve.

Do deglaze. Wine is classic for a braise, and red and white (my personal favorites) work equally well here. Unsweetened fruit juice, cider, and brown booze like rum, brandy, and cognac all work magic with fruit, and will reduce into a luxurious sauce in the oven just like the wine. Don’t use clear alcohols like vodka. The liquid should cover about two-thirds of the fruit, enough to cook it through but not so much that it can’t reduce down into a sauce.

Do control the sweetness of your braise by adding granulated sugar, brown sugar, honey, or maple syrup along with the liquid. Use a 4:1 liquid to sweetener ratio, and adjust slightly depending on your taste and how naturally sweet the fruit is, keeping in mind that it will reduce and concentrate. For stronger alcohols like rum, brandy, or cognac use a 2:2:1 alcohol to water to sweetener ratio. Add the booze first, and allow it to bubble for 30 seconds before adding the water and sweetener.

Do build flavors with aromatics, adding them along with your braising liquid. Hearty herbs are ideal here, like rosemary with apples and pears, bay leaf with quince, and thyme with peaches. Warming flavors like vanilla bean, cinnamon sticks, peppercorns, whole star anise, cardamom pods, allspice, and slices of fresh ginger root are all born to braise, but don’t use delicate herbs like basil, mint, or tarragon, which will get a bit muddy and otherwise lost in the sauce. (But if you really love those flavors, they can be added as a fresh accent for serving.)

The Final Touches

Finish your braised fruit low and slow. Pop the lid on your braiser and transfer to a 325° F oven. Fruits that are relatively soft to start—like pineapples, peaches, cherries, and apples—will go for about 60 minutes, whereas things like quince and underripe pears can go for 90 minutes or so. When done, the fruit should have no resistance when poked with a fork or paring knife. If it’s still a little tough, give it another 20 minutes or until tender.

Add a touch of bright acid and cold dairy when you’re ready to serve. The rich sweetness of the finished braise benefits from a punchy squeeze of fresh citrus, or a splash of vinegar (I love apple cider, Champagne, or balsamic). And of course cold, rich dairy is the perfect sidekick, from whipped ricotta to vanilla ice cream to mascarpone. And whatever you do, save the leftover braising liquid. This stuff is gold and will keep in the fridge for up to four weeks. Drizzle on ice cream, yogurt, pancakes, waffles, french toast, or oatmeal, and if you’re feeling daring, you could even add it to your favorite mocktail or boozy beverage of choice.

Photo by MJ Kroeger. Prop Stylist: Alya Hameedi. Food Stylist: Lauren LaPenna.

What’s your favorite braised fruit combo? Tell us in the comments!

Our friends at Le Creuset have been brightening kitchens with their colorful French-made cookware since 1925, expanding their inventory from the first cast-iron cocotte to a product range that now includes the original cast-iron plus stainless steel, non-stick, stoneware, dinnerware, and more. Their timeless, handcrafted cookware is as beautiful as it is functional and all of their products are guaranteed to last a lifetime, which means endless possibilities for seared, pan-fried, roasted, braised, and otherwise cooked delights.

See what other Food52 readers are saying.

  • FrugalCat
    FrugalCat
  • Alexandra Holbrook
    Alexandra Holbrook
  • judy
    judy
Caroline Schiff

Written by: Caroline Schiff

Caroline Schiff is the Executive Pastry Chef at Gage & Tollner, Executive Chef at Slow Up, and author of The Sweet Side of Sourdough. Widely known under the Instagram moniker @pastryschiff, she is a celebrated pastry chef, culinary consultant, and recipe writer and developer based in Brooklyn. She got her start in the restaurant industry over a decade ago and worked her way up through a number of acclaimed restaurants and bakeries before taking her current position at Gage & Tollner, in Downtown Brooklyn. Her signature gravity-defying hairdo is outsized only by her enormous heart; in her spare time you can find her either supporting charitable causes or running a marathon.

3 Comments

FrugalCat September 6, 2023
I do this in my Corckpot.
 
Alexandra H. February 22, 2022
Sounds delicious! Just a quick note to be careful and always remove your pan from the heat, especially is using gas heat, before adding hard alcohol, such as brandy or cognac, to stovetop dish. A flame can easily ignite inside the neck of an alcohol bottle and dangerously explode.
 
judy February 6, 2022
This is a beautiful braising pan. I get the need for sponsors, but this blatant push in this recipe is frustrating....I have been braising fruits like pears, apples, pineapple, and yes, oranges, tangerine and kumquats for years. They all come out beautifully, and I don't have this fancy pan. It is nice. but not all can afford the level of kitchen items that food52 pushes these days...Perhaps include a couple of levels of pans for cooking the recipe. I like my stainless steel and porcelain over stainless the best. Cook beautifully, are relatively easy to clean and no chemicals.