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It's the season of overflowing market bags, heavy CSA boxes, and gardens run amok. Alexandra Stafford of Alexandra Cooks is showing us how to store, prep, and make the most of the bounty, without wasting a scrap.
Today: Get inspired by a glut of radishes, whether you're on your first bunch of the season of your 100th.
I think by now we all know the formula: Radishes + salt = appetizer elegance. Radishes + butter + baguette = snack time nirvana. Radishes + rustic farm table + screen-printed textiles = a food photographer's dream.
But what if you're on your 100th radish bunch of the summer and these peppery gems need to play a greater role? More than something to tide us over between meals, more than just a garnish? What if a bundle of radishes on its own must be tonight’s vegetable?
CSA subscribers, prolific gardeners, and enthusiastic market-goers alike know this issue all too well. Sure, radishes and butter and salt are made for each other, but come mid-summer, even the most striking ombre roots begin to lose their luster.
More: Meet the radish with a dark side.
When this happens, it might be time to reconsider the formula. While we usually eat radishes raw, they can be cooked, and when they are, they transform. When roasted in the oven at high heat, radishes, like many root vegetables, caramelize and take on those concentrated, wintry flavors.
Roasted radishes are delicious, but this time of year, a nice option is to pan-braise, which mellows the radish's spice and changes its texture, making it tender and moist, almost beet-like. This Deborah Madison recipe, though perhaps more hands-on than other radish recipes, still takes only minutes to prepare and keeps the flavors simple: shallots, butter, water, herbs. The beauty of this preparation, too, is that the greens steam with the radishes at the very end, making the dish more substantial -- a side that will comfortably feed four.
To store and prep your radishes:
- As soon as you get home, remove any elastic bands or ties and trim the greens from the radishes, using scissors or a sharp knife.
- Store the greens and radishes in bags or in tea towels, wrapped loosely in the refrigerator.
- Soak both the greens and radishes in a large bowl of cold water before serving -- both tend to be dirty.
- Dry radishes well before serving; the greens can be somewhat damp before steaming or sautéing.
- Greens that have yellowed should be discarded; greens that look tired can be revived in a bowl of cold water -- after 20 to 30 minutes, the greens should perk up; if they don’t, they’re probably beyond repair.
More: Looking for more step-by-step radish prep photos? Head here.
To cook your radishes:
- Radishes are most often served raw, halved and sprinkled with salt, shaved into salads, layered over butter-smeared baguettes, shredded into slaws. They also can be marinated with olive oil and lemon and mint for a refreshing salad, and they can be pickled with a classic vinegar-sugar-salt mix. Finely diced radishes mixed with red onion, jalapeño, cilantro, and lime make a peppery and crunchy salsa, a nice addition to any taco.
- Radishes can also be cooked, as described here, or roasted with olive oil, salt, and pepper at 450º F for 15 to 20 minutes or until caramelized and tender. Additionally, they can be sautéed and puréed with any number of vegetables (parsnips, potatoes, turnips, etc.) for a light vegetable side dish. This purée, too, can be thinned into a soup with chicken or vegetable stock.
- The greens: Discard any yellow greens before cooking. Greens can be quickly steamed or sautéed and dressed with olive oil or butter, a squeeze of lemon or splash of vinegar, minced shallots, and any number of herbs.
2 large bunches radishes and their greens
4 teaspoons butter, or more or less, divided
Kosher salt and pepper to taste
1 bunch fresh tarragon
Splashes vinegar (optional)
Photos by Alexandra Stafford