Every Tuesday, Italian local Emiko Davies is taking us on a grand tour of Italy, showing us how to make classic, fiercely regional dishes at home.
Today: One taste of this three-ingredient Sicilian summer pudding and you'll wonder why you haven't been cooking—yes, cooking—watermelon for years.
It may seem counterintuitive to cook watermelon and make a pudding out of it, but once it's the middle of summer and watermelons are tumbling out of their crates at the markets—and once you've tasted this bright, refreshing Sicilian dessert—you'll wonder why you never tried it before.
There are really only three main ingredients at work here: fresh watermelon juice, cornstarch, and sugar. The result is a slightly wobbly pudding that's quite similar to lemon curd or panna cotta in consistency, but very fresh and delicate (and, not to mention, gluten-free and vegan).
If you want to add more ingredients, the individual puddings can be made all the more exotic with the addition of flavors like cinnamon or jasmine extract (make it by steeping white jasmine flowers in hot water, or simply use bottled essence) and a garnish of either chopped pistachios or dark chocolate. Sometimes even candied pumpkin, a traditional sweetener used in Sicilian pastry making, makes an appearance. And, if you have a lot left over, the mixture can be used to fill pie bases for baking crostata—think a watermelon version of lemon curd tarts.
In Palermo, the capital of Sicily, the pudding is prepared for the mid-July celebrations of Santa Rosalia, the city's patron saint. You'll find it's also the island's preferred dessert for Ferragosto, the main summer holiday celebrated by all Italians on August 15. This dish is a part of summer holidays because it's such a good summery dessert (palate cleansing, light, and refreshing—something that everyone will enjoy on a hot day after a big meal)—or perhaps because it makes good use of the season's ripe, juicy watermelons. Either way, it's superb.
Watermelon Pudding (Gelo d'Anguria)
Serves 6 to 8
4 cups (1 liter) watermelon juice
2/3 cup (100 grams) cornstarch (cornflour)
1/2 cup (100 grams) sugar
Optional flavors: jasmine extract or ground cinnamon
Optional garnishes: chopped dark chocolate or chopped unsalted pistachios
See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.
Photos by Emiko Davies
Emiko, a.k.a. Emiko Davies, is a food writer and cookbook author living in Tuscany, where she writes about (and eats!) regional Italian foods. You can read more of her writing on her blog.
This article was originally published in 2015.
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20 Comments
Also, there is a difference between doing things because you can, and doing things that make sense. Currently, we cook out of necessity to have the quality of meals we desire. My spouse’s father was sous chef at a world famous hotel; we are familiar with excellently prepared food. However, we also share a theory that some things don't need to be improved upon, such as: lobster, tree ripened peaches, tree ripened pears, blueberries, raspberries , filet mignon, homemade ice cream, and WATERMELON.
The notion of making "pudding" out of watermelon is simply silly. The flavor is SO delicate, and SO refreshing, that it NEEDS no other life. Nothing says "summer" like watermelon. Yes, other backyard favorites are summery; grilled chicken, 7 layer salad, homemade lemonade, potato salad, cucumber salad, taking turns cranking the ice cream churn (and licking the paddle) are all "sounds, smells, and flavors of summer," but watermelon IS summer. It needs no other role, application, or treatment. Your desire to transform watermelon seems bizarre. There are people who don't know how to make a reliable pot roast, a passable corn bread, or a decent apple pie, and who need GOOD AND SIMPLE recipes (with accurate directions) to have an easier time feeding their families, yet you are spending your time deconstructing watermelon.
Simplicity seems to be lesson that has to be learned, generationally. Back in the 70s, there were countless recipes for "plugging" watermelon with instructions to fill them with red or white wine, vodka, gin ‘n tonic, mint leaves, or brandy; the net result was the ruination of many a watermelon. The lesson then was, if you want a drink, mix it in a glass; do not try to be “cute” by disguising it in a watermelon. Why do have to learn those lesson again? DO NOTHING to watermelon, past cooling and sharing. We are all happy children with a slice of watermelon.
Welcome to Italy and enjoy your stay.
Mike
But this does look like a creative way to use watermelon. I never think of cooking it into a dessert!
btw, I made the pasta with zucchini last week, and it was fantastic!
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