A roux is just a mixture of flour and fat that cooks until the flour browns to a certain degree. What difference does it make whether the heat is applied by a flame to a pan with someone stirring constantly or by hot air inside an oven with less frequent stirring? The flour and oil don't know the difference. When they reach a certain temperature, the flour browns, the characteristic flavor compounds form, and that's that.
I've made dark roux in the oven, and I couldn't tell the difference between it and a roux stirred constantly on the stovetop. It takes a good bit longer, but it's also more forgiving because the color changes are more gradual and the risk of ruining a batch by burning is diminished. And your forearm doesn't get burned by "Cajun napalm."
Personally, I prefer to do it on the stove because it's quicker. But if the result cooked in the oven is comparable, why not do it that way if it suits you better?
Roux in the oven ? ... That's not a roux! No problem with "new- age", but call it something else. By definition it's not a roux. ... It's baked "something"!
I have wondered if this method gets the roux as dark as it should be. I enjoy the gumbo recipe from cooks illustrated but it is also the only one I have ever made. I would be curious to see what someone from the New Orleans thinks of this roux.
I tend to be a profound skeptic of most of CI's methods. As in this case. The tag reads "gumbo". I can't imagine making a roux for gumbo that you stick in the oven and walk away from. The color needs to be just right as it's the foundation of the dish. Ask yourself if you've ever enjoyed a "blonde" gumbo.
I know! I was scared it would burn the first time I did it, but after you toast the flour you add the oil, whisk, put the lid on and put it into the oven at 350 on the lowest oven rack for 45 minutes. It comes out perfect every time.
9 Comments
A roux is just a mixture of flour and fat that cooks until the flour browns to a certain degree. What difference does it make whether the heat is applied by a flame to a pan with someone stirring constantly or by hot air inside an oven with less frequent stirring? The flour and oil don't know the difference. When they reach a certain temperature, the flour browns, the characteristic flavor compounds form, and that's that.
I've made dark roux in the oven, and I couldn't tell the difference between it and a roux stirred constantly on the stovetop. It takes a good bit longer, but it's also more forgiving because the color changes are more gradual and the risk of ruining a batch by burning is diminished. And your forearm doesn't get burned by "Cajun napalm."
Personally, I prefer to do it on the stove because it's quicker. But if the result cooked in the oven is comparable, why not do it that way if it suits you better?
No problem with "new- age", but call it something else.
By definition it's not a roux. ...
It's baked "something"!