Hannah - Both ways are good. If you like the idea of a rise, or the lighter texture from it, use Jamie Geller's recipe. If you want to make kokosh without a rise, use the Koenig recipe or one from the New York Jewish Week.
Background
1) Leah Koenig (whose recipe is here on food52) is a highly respected author and cooking teacher. In this recipe, no rise.
2) Jamie Geller, another fine author and teacher, and she does allow for 1 rise.
https://www.joyofkosher.com/recipes/double-chocolate-kokosh-cake/
3) A recipe in the Jewish Week, a key newspaper in the NY-NJ Jewish community, also has no rise.
https://jwfoodandwine.com/chocolate-kokosh-aka-simple-babka
Sorry, just seeing this! Indeed, this recipe calls for no-rise or proofing step. It makes the bread-cake super simple to make and gives the crust a super tender, but not puffy texture.
Just for a bit more background - the kokosh you see in Jewish/kosher bakeries in NYC is typically quite thin-textured but very tender. That is what I was striving for when I developed the recipe, and I think the yeast dough with no rise gets pretty close! Feel free to ask any follow up questions.
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4 Comments
Background
1) Leah Koenig (whose recipe is here on food52) is a highly respected author and cooking teacher. In this recipe, no rise.
2) Jamie Geller, another fine author and teacher, and she does allow for 1 rise.
https://www.joyofkosher.com/recipes/double-chocolate-kokosh-cake/
3) A recipe in the Jewish Week, a key newspaper in the NY-NJ Jewish community, also has no rise.
https://jwfoodandwine.com/chocolate-kokosh-aka-simple-babka