This unusual recipe dates from the 1980s, when a huge amount of my time was spent creating desserts for Cocolat, my chocolate dessert shops, and my first book by the same name.
Always a fan of cranberries, I wanted to use them to fill and garnish winter tarts and cakes, just as one does with fresh berries in summertime. I imagined individual berries, plump, sparkling, and pretty.
But every method of cooking seemed to result in sauce—the berries always burst and collapsed into something delicious, but more suited for turkey and gravy than a gorgeous dessert.
Shop the Story
I finally ended up with a method for gently candying them. I have no memory how I got there. The recipe appeared in my first book (James Beard Foundation Cookbook of the Year) Cocolat: Extraordinary Chocolate Desserts, published in 1990. Here it is again, slightly adapted for clarity.
My career was sparked by a single bite of a chocolate truffle, made by my Paris landlady in 1972. I returned home to open this country’s first chocolate bakery and dessert shop, Cocolat, and I am often “blamed” for introducing chocolate truffles to America. Today I am the James Beard Foundation and IACP award-winning author of ten cookbooks, teach a chocolate dessert class on Craftsy.com, and work with some of the world’s best chocolate companies. In 2018, I won the IACP Award for Best Food-Focused Column (this one!).