Stew

The Curried, Coconut-y Cauliflower Stew That Started as a Salad

October  5, 2016

In early September, I discovered a chickpea-and-cauliflower salad at my local co-op. Its mix of tastes and textures—salty black olives, sweet golden raisins, toasty pine nuts, and a sharp, intensely curried dressing—had me analyzing every bite, inspecting the ingredient list, and searching my cookbooks for reproduction guidance.

In Ad Hoc at Home, I came across a promising recipe composed, in true Thomas Keller fashion, of many sub-recipes: a curry vinaigrette, wine-steeped golden raisins, pickled red onions, fried parsley leaves. It served as a guide, producing a respectable likeness that made its debut at a Labor Day gathering and many times after that. The salad held up well in the fridge all week, making for quick lunches and the occasional dinner.

But overnight, it seems, I lost interest in this sort of cold, hardy salad, favoring anything soupy and brothy. And so, I turned the salad hot. I kept many of the flavors the same, using Julia Turshen’s curried lentils as a guide (which I made recently, see here). I loved the lentils's simple method: sauté aromatics with spices to allow them to “bloom”—or as Julia says, “wake up”—then simmer everything in a mix of water and coconut milk.

Shop the Story

When hot, the salad is more of a stew, the chickpeas soften, and the small bits of cauliflower dissolve, thickening everything. Without the pickled onions or vinaigrette of Keller’s recipe, there’s no bite or acidity. But it’s just as addictive, tasting slightly sweeter. And with a side of naan, it’s utterly comforting.

Can you believe this was once salad? Photo by Alexandra Stafford

If you cook the chickpeas ahead of time or used canned, this dish becomes weeknight friendly, coming together in about 30 minutes. As you sauté the onion with the curry powder, you parboil the cauliflower, then add it to the pot along with the chickpeas, raisins, coconut milk, and water. Twenty minutes later, when the liquids reduce, the cauliflower breaks down, the raisins plump, and the chickpeas swell, it’s done. The stew needs nothing more than a showering of cilantro: a welcomed, bright finish.

Photo by Alexandra Stafford

Once a salad, this stew is already no stranger to change—and, yet, the spices and ingredients can be varied endlessly. Here are some ideas:

  • Instead of cauliflower, use cubes of butternut squash, potato, carrots, or parsnips. The key is to parboil the vegetables first to ensure they cook completely during the final 20 minutes of simmering.

  • Or omit the cauliflower altogether and, after the chickpeas simmer for 10 minutes, add lots of chopped chard or spinach, simmering until the greens wilt and become tender.

  • Substitute quick-cooking grains or pulses or cooked legumes for the chickpeas.

  • Try different aromatics, like ginger, garlic, or shallots in addition to (or even in place of) the onion.

  • For a less rich taste, water or vegetable stock can take the place of the coconut milk.

The cauliflower's (kind of) optional. Photo by Alexandra Stafford
  • For a Moroccan variation, use ras-el-hanout in place of the curry powder and add a teaspoon of minced preserved lemon and a handful of pitted, green olives.

  • For a Thai variation, omit the curry powder, raisins, and pine nuts and add minced ginger in with the onion and a tablespoon or two of Thai red curry paste with the coconut milk.

Alexandra Stafford is a writer, photographer, and occasional stationery designer based in upstate New York, where she is writing a cookbook. You can read more of her work on her blog.

Join The Conversation

Top Comment:
“My cauliflower was a little small so added in a sweet potato (par-boiling it with the cauliflower) which added nice color and contrast. It turned out just a little soupier than I expected, but nothing a little naan can't take care of :)”
— Jessica B.
Comment

What favorite salad would you turn into stew, if you could? Tell us in the comments below!

View Guide
The Magical Mini Guide 
to Cozy Weekends

Whether you're in the mood for some soup-simmering, 
leaf-peeping, or nothing at all, your dream weekend awaits...

View Guide

8 Comments

Jessica B. October 10, 2016
Just enjoyed this! It's full of flavor. My cauliflower was a little small so added in a sweet potato (par-boiling it with the cauliflower) which added nice color and contrast. It turned out just a little soupier than I expected, but nothing a little naan can't take care of :)
 
Jessica B. October 10, 2016
Follow up: also "mashed up" the chickpeas and cauliflower a bit with my spoon and it gave it a heartier texture.
 
Author Comment
Alexandra S. October 10, 2016
Love the idea of sweet potato here! I think butternut squash would be great, too. And, yes, naan! Incidentally, I found these stonefire naan minis at my store, and they fit in the toaster, and I love them. Will try your mashing technique next time!
 
Cheryl M. October 21, 2016
Consider using the kind of sweet potato known as the 'traditional' yam?
 
Marion G. October 5, 2016
Joy of Cooking 2 has a similar recipe that includes potatoes and spinach that I have adapted as my "kitchen sink" recipe. ;)
 
Author Comment
Alexandra S. October 5, 2016
Oooh, nice! I'll have to check it out ... but I have the original Joy of Cooking. Is the recipe online anywhere?
 
Fresh T. October 5, 2016
Oh Ali! Recipes and advice like this is why I always love finding your recipes in my inbox. (oh, and I've just been reading your "what to do with sweet potatoes" article for the first time! love sweet potatoes and they're very big here.)<br />
 
Author Comment
Alexandra S. October 5, 2016
Oh, Dana, you are too sweet. Thank you :) xo