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The Piglet / 2012 / Quarterfinal Round, 2012
Judged by: Roz Chast
Roz Chast is a staff cartoonist for The New Yorker. Over 1,000 of her cartoons have appeared in the magazine. Her most recent book is What I Hate From A to Z, published in 2011, and her signature dish is Saltines à la Crunchy Peanut Butter.
32 Comments
Rivka is right; chiles are pretty much available everywhere these days, not just Mexico and New York City, as the cartoon suggests. Adobos are made with DRIED CHILES, as it states in the very thorough 25-page-long adobo chapter of the book. The Basic Ancho Adobo recipe (pg 126 - sounds really yummy btw,) takes all of 3 minutes in a blender. Cooking the fish (pg 130) takes 2 or 3 minutes per side, as quick as, say, laying out a cheese board and opening a bottle of wine, after rummaging through the junk drawer for the corkscrew, and looking for the crackers. There’s also a Basics chapter, which talks about essential ingredients and techniques, a Salsa chapter, a Guacamole chapter, a Mole chapter, a what-else-to-do-with-sauces chapter, and then finally, a sides chapter. I’m eager to learn and cook from this book, as we love authentic Mexican food.
Perhaps, in the little piglet info box, top right, where it says "Welcome to the year 3 of the tournament of cookbooks!", omit the part about the judges being top food writers and chefs, because clearly, some aren’t. Or better yet, find judges who will agree to give equal consideration to both contenders and actually cook from the books.
What a terrible review. I love both books and certainly don't have any issue with a person choosing Tender over Truly Mexican (although Truly Mexican is TRULY wonderful), but, seriously, a book is judged based on not making the recipe? Ridiculous.
Ms. Chast should have water with her Saltines and peanut butter.
But...Round 1's reviews inspired me to buy just one of the books, Truly Mexican. I have a number of Mexican cookbooks, but I've never felt like I "got it" with Mexican cooking. I'd thought the only way to get over my discomfort would be to find a nice old Mexican grandmother who spoke some English to help.
Truly Mexican changed that in a week! I have made the ancho adobo twice (the Whole Foods near me has the most lovely ancho chiles in their bulk bins). I've made tortillas and salsas and guacamoles and cooked pork and fish and chicken and beans in all sorts of ways. Best of all, in just that week, I now feel completely at ease to make my own substitutions and creations. It's a miracle that I just never got with Diana Kennedy.
I never figured that Truly Mexican would make it all the way--it's just not the kind of book that a lot of reviewers were going to love over the ones that have us growing vegetables and eating local, healthy food. But I sure am glad it was part of the mix.