Italian

What To Do with an Overload of Cauliflower

October  3, 2014

Winter is coming and we're serious about keeping farmers market produce on the menu. Alexandra Stafford of Alexandra Cooks is showing us how to store, prep, and make the most of the bounty, without wasting a scrap. 

Today: Cauliflower's delicate taste makes it an excellent foil to more flavorful ingredients. Pasta with Slow-Cooked Cauliflower, Anchovies, and Garlic will teach you the ways.

Pasta with Slow-Cooked Cauliflower, Anchovies and Garlic

In a food world where al dente, crisp, and caramelized reign, pasta tossed with long-cooked, falling-to-pieces cauliflower might not ever catch on. Add to it breadcrumbs and cheese, and the monochromatic sight might send a nutritionist on a plate-as-color-wheel rant.

But if you can get beyond the texture and the color, this dish, which comes from Pasta: Recipes from The Kitchen of the American Academy in Rome, might make you forget crispy edges altogether -- or at least make you appreciate the beauty of tender cauliflower melting into a sauce. In the book, this recipe falls in the vegetable-based sauces chapter, which puts the long cooking time into perspective: The cauliflower florets, after a five-minute blanching and twenty-minute sauté, become the sauce, the teensy pieces disintegrating altogether, the bigger stalks, which could be spread like butter, remaining intact. During the lengthy cooking, the cauliflower sweetens before meeting a salty anchovy-garlic paste and a heavy pinch of red pepper flakes, a trinity of seasonings rooted in Roman cooking.

Market Fresh Cauliflower

If you're worried you'll crave more contrast in texture, don't -- toasted breadcrumbs sprinkled at the very end provide the nicest crunch. And if you can't get over the spectrum of pale colors, try a whole-grain pasta: Farro, kamut, buckwheat, and spelt pastas, with their nutty, earthy flavors, pair especially well with the boldness of this sauce.

Chopped Cauliflower

Cauliflower, too, can not only handle assertive flavors, but can  also be a bit of a chameleon, capable of dramatic changes in nature depending on its preparation. When roasted at high heat, it becomes crisp and caramelized, a preparation that might lead you to eat a whole head in a single sitting. When boiled and puréed, it becomes velvety smooth, the creamiest cream-less soup imaginable, a boon for vegans and omnivores alike. When poached then roasted whole or cut into slabs and pan-seared like a steak, it becomes meaty, an all-star of Meatless Mondays.

More: Check out our weekly Meatless Monday menus here.

Pasta with Slow-Cooked Cauliflower, Anchovies and Garlic

But cauliflower can be prepared simply, too, especially when it's fresh. I had never boiled cauliflower before making this pasta recipe, always favoring roasting at high heat, guilty of wanting those crispy, caramelized edges. But boiled cauliflower cooked in heavily salted water emerges tasting buttery and creamy on its own. And though it barely needs a drizzle of anything, I've been loving dressing the poached florets with a few tablespoons of brown butter, sprinkling them with tarragon, and showering them with crispy breadcrumbs, a preparation for which I have Chez Panisse Vegetables to thank. Crispy and colorful, it's a dream for gourmands and nutritionists alike.

To store your cauliflower:

  • Cauliflower is a member of the cruciferous family (broccoli, cabbage, kale, brussels sprouts, etc.) and comes in a variety of colors including white, gold, pale green, and purple. Look for firm, compact heads with fine-grained curds. If possible, avoid heads with brown spots or any discoloration, but small brown spots are fine -- just cut them off. Store cauliflower in the vegetable bin of your fridge for a week or longer. If you can fit it in a bag, do so, otherwise wrap with a tea towel. Cauliflower that has been cut into florets should be used within a day or two. 

 To prep your cauliflower:

  • Remove outer green leaves and stems and, if you are feeling especially nose-to-tailish, reserve these greens and cook (steam, sauté, etc.) them alongside the cauliflower. If the recipe specifies cutting the head into florets, use a paring knife to remove the stems from the center stalk. The stalk can be cut up and cooked as well. 

 To cook your cauliflower:

  • Cauliflower pairs well with assertive flavors: garlic, anchovies, red pepper flakes, olives, capers, saffron, paprika, curry powder, turmeric. As noted above, it's versatile and can be cooked in so many ways.

Pasta with Slow-Cooked Cauliflower, Anchovies, and Garlic Ingredients 

  • Cauliflower can be eaten raw or briefly blanched and served with aioli or bagna cauda. When shredded, raw cauliflower makes a great slaw.

More: Use bagna cauda to craft an entire salad.

  • Fresh cauliflower needs little doctoring. It can be blanched in heavily salted water for five minutes and tossed with a little butter or olive oil. Dress this preparation up with brown butter, herbs, and crispy breadcrumbs.
  • Cauliflower can be roasted whole, in slabs or in florets: 

Whole: After a twenty-minute poaching in a flavorful broth, a whole head of cauliflower can be roasted until brown all over, then served with a tangy, whipped goat cheese sauce. 

Slabs: Cut a head of cauliflower into one-inch thick slices, then pan-sear them and finish them in the oven until tender. 

Florets: Season with olive oil, salt, and pepper, spread onto sheet pan, and roast at 425º F until tender, about thirty minutes. To dress these florets up, toss them with any number of seasonings before roasting or toss them with herbs and breadcrumbs after roasting.  

Pasta with Slow-Cooked Cauliflower, Anchovies, and Garlic 

Cauliflower can be boiled, mixed with water and sautéed onions, and puréed into the smoothest, creamiest vegan soup. For a richer preparation, simmer the cauliflower in milk with garlic and purée it with butter and herbs.

Cauliflower can be simmered with milk or broth or water, puréed until smooth, and used as a filling for ravioli, as a spread for crostini, or as a lightened-up bechamel. Cauliflower's flavor pairs nicely with fruits such as apple or pears -- simmer the florets and the peeled, diced fruit together, then purée them until smooth. Use as a purée or thin into a soup

More: Puréed soups can also be made with butternut squash, parsnip, and kale

Pasta with Slow-Cooked Cauliflower, Anchovies, and Garlic 

Cauliflower can be added to curries and stews or braised in flavorful broths, like one with wine, olive oil, onions, and olives.

Pan-roast or sauté cauliflower florets in a skillet with olive oil until browned and tender. Add pine nuts, breadcrumbs, herbs, and currants for a simple but impressive side dish. Or toss the browned florets with pasta, walnuts, and ricotta salata. Or bake them into a frittata.

Cauliflower can be blanched and mixed with flour and eggs and seasonings and fried into fritters or pancakes. It can be baked into pastas  and gratins. It, like everything, can be pickled.

Tell us: How do you like cooking with cauliflower?

Pasta with Slow-Cooked Cauliflower, Anchovies and Garlic 

Pasta with Slow-Cooked Cauliflower, Anchovies, and Garlic

Serves 4

1 whole cauliflower, about 2 pounds before being trimmed
4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil
1 to 2 cloves garlic, depending on your preferences
4 to 5 anchovy fillets
Minced fresh rosemary to taste, optional (a little goes a long way)
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or more or less to taste
1/2 pound pasta, whole-wheat varieties are nice here, and small shapes (orecchiette, elbows, etc.) are nice, too
1/2 cup toasted breadcrumbs
1/2 cup grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano

See the full recipe (and save and print it) here.

Photos by Alexandra Stafford

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A New Way to Dinner, co-authored by Food52's founders Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs, is an indispensable playbook for stress-free meal-planning (hint: cook foundational dishes on the weekend and mix and match ‘em through the week).

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17 Comments

Karen November 16, 2014
I add a whole head of cauliflower to boiling salted water and boil until partially cooked through. I automatically placed the cauliflower to a baking dish and add a little bit more salt and pepper. Next, simply pour over the cauliflower a whole can of Cheddar Cheese soup (without heating or adding any liquid to the soup). There will be enough liquid left in the cauliflower to to keep it somewhat soupy. You can add garlic, scallions or whatever that you would like. Bake covered at 375 degrees for about one-half hour - depending on how large the head of cauliflower is. It is a nice vegetable to serve with ham, turkey, beef roast or just about anything. Tastes Great !!!<br />
 
witloof October 14, 2014
THIS!!!!<br />http://smittenkitchen.com/blog/2014/09/cauliflower-slaw/
 
Amanda H. October 7, 2014
This is my favorite use for lots of cauliflower: Roasted, with sauteed onions and a tahini sauce! http://ovenandapron.com/2014/06/22/golden-roasted-cauliflower/
 
Author Comment
Alexandra S. October 8, 2014
Your pictures are making me crazy — that looks SO good. I love any roasted vegetables with tahini sauce, but your version with the fried onions and that paprika-infused tahini sauce is totally over the top. Yum! Thank you for sharing. Will try this soon.
 
Amanda H. October 8, 2014
It's very good, I hope you do try it! :)
 
Windischgirl October 5, 2014
I make a pasta dish with Spanish flavors: caramelize the florets in a skillet with olive oil; add in crushed garlic and sliced almonds and brown. Stir in slivered sun dried tomatoes, sliced green olives, chopped fresh parsley, sweet and hot paprika (smoked if you like). Add grindings of black pepper; it has enough salt from the olives and tomatoes. Add in a bit of the pasta water to loosen. I like this with rigatoni or other chunky pasta.
 
Susan October 5, 2014
Oh my gosh: yum! This sounds wonderful!
 
Author Comment
Alexandra S. October 5, 2014
SO wonderful! Love all of these flavors, especially the olives and sundried tomatoes — yum!
 
Windischgirl October 5, 2014
Susan and Alexandra, thanks for the feedback! It's a favorite at my house...satisfying my carnivore sons and vegetarian daughter alike.<br />
 
marietta B. October 4, 2014
Cauliflower "mashed potatoes" from The Clean Diet <br />Medium head of cauliflower cut into florets <br />1-2 garlic cloves minced<br />2 tablespoons olive oil or melted butter<br />¼ cup cream<br />salt and pepper to taste<br />optional: chives or other fresh herbs<br /><br />Steam the cauliflower til tender. In a large bowl, beat cauliflower and garlic (or use a blender), slowly adding cream until fluffy. Top with chives, etc. and serve warm.
 
Author Comment
Alexandra S. October 5, 2014
Oh yum! So simple but so good. Definitely trying this!
 
Susan October 4, 2014
Cauliflower is one of my favorites, and along with celery, one of the very few vegetables I've successfully grown. :(
 
Susan October 4, 2014
Make that NEVER successfully grown.
 
Andreas D. October 4, 2014
Same here. It's really hard to grow.
 
Author Comment
Alexandra S. October 5, 2014
Good to know — I won't try it! I had a relatively successful year in the garden, which might lead me to be over confident next year :) Just kidding, my list is small: I've got tomatoes, shishito and padron peppers on the list. Greens are off — I get too many in my CSA to warrant growing them, too.
 
Andreas D. October 3, 2014
I love cauliflower and thankfully it's one the veggies my kids will eat. I roast it with olive oil and anchovies, then serve it with pasta, on bread, with a fried egg, the possibilities are endless.
 
Author Comment
Alexandra S. October 5, 2014
I was shocked to discover that my children like it, too, with just olive oil or butter and salt and pepper. A fried egg with cauliflower sounds amazing — can't believe I haven't tried that yet!