A Fish Sauce With All of the Flavor & None of the Fish

January  8, 2016

I remember the first time a friend told me about Tú Lan, a hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese restaurant that was a favorite of Julia Child. It was in the Tenderloin district of San Francisco, and you had to walk past the stench of bodily fluids and climb over a drunken body or two in the doorway to get in.

Vietnamese food was just becoming discovered in the early nineties, and was new to me as well. I was immediately smitten with the heady aromas and freshness of the fragrant cuisine, and set out on a quest to find every Vietnamese joint in town.

Vietnamese rice noodle salad Photo by James Ransom

What I didn’t know at the time was that Vietnamese food, like Thai, contained fermented fish sauce, and, as a vegan, I was shocked when a friend enlightened me. Not wanting to believe him, I returned to Tú Lan to order my favorite dishes sans fish sauce. Unfortunately, the dishes arrived still tasty but lacking that special something that had taken them over the top on my previous visits.

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Alas, what was I to do? Well, the answer was obvious: Create my own, of course! But how to do that when I had never actually tasted fish sauce except unwittingly in a dish?

I closed my eyes and imagined that Missing Flavor: savory, salty, full of umami, a bit tangy from fermentation, and of course, fishy.

Wakame, second from left, towards the bottom Photo by Bobbi Lin

Flavors of the sea are easy to replicate: Simply reach to plants that grow there, meaning sea vegetables; I’d done that many times before to create convincing chowders, bouillabaisse, and other traditional seafood dishes. So wakame became my source for sea essence. Saltiness was also easy, as I reached out for my favorite Japanese soy sauce, and the tanginess came from vinegar.

The resulting sauce was tasty, but lacking a bit of depth. It was the fermented flavor that it needed, and I wasn’t quite sure how I was going to get that.

Wakame powder, foreground, and fermented tofu, at right Photo by James Ransom

Then I remembered fermented tofu (a.k.a. fermented bean curd), a stinky concoction of slightly slimy, buttery squares of tofu found in jars at Asian grocery stores. A condiment that can be a bit strong on its own, if not plain unappetizing for most Western tastes, fermented tofu is something that can provide that hidden boost and umami to many dishes.

Tastes good on almost everything Photo by James Ransom

As it turned out, it did give that much needed punch to my vegan adaptation, transforming it into a convincing fish sauce that would come to play a versatile role in my kitchen in everything from stir-fried vegetables to salad dressings to anything Asian or fusion.

And hey, why not carry a small bottle of it when you visit a Vietnamese or Thai restaurant and add it at your table to a dish made sans real fish sauce?

To make the wakame powder, put the wakame in a blender and cover tightly. Process until it is completely pulverized. Wait a second for the wakame dust to settle before removing the lid, or you’ll lose some of it as it disperses into the air. Store in a covered jar at room temperature.

Once you have the wakame powder, combine all of the ingredients in a jar and mix or shake well. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 months. Shake well each time before using to redistribute the wakame.

Do you have a go-to fish sauce replacement? Tell us in the comments!

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The Food52 Vegan Cookbook is here! With this book from Gena Hamshaw, anyone can learn how to eat more plants (and along the way, how to cook with and love cashew cheese, tofu, and nutritional yeast).

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I wrote my first cookbook nearly 25 years ago (The Now and Zen Epicure, Book Publishing Company, 1991) to dispel the myth that vegan food could not be gourmet. Back in San Francisco, I launched a vegan bakery, then a vegan restaurant (Now and Zen), where I went into labor with my second child during lunch rush (my third child came along only a year later, and I carried her in a bundle on my back as I ran around the kitchen). The restaurant eventually morphed into a natural food manufacturing company with national distribution, making everything from meat substitutes – including the UnTurkey – and cookies and pastries for United Airlines. Eventually, I sold the business to concentrate on raising my young family. My mission over the years has been to entice people to a compassionate, plant-based diet through delicious food. My passion for this mission has grown stronger each year, and now I carry that message to people around the country, actively promoting veganism through my books, talks, television shows (Vegan Mashup, seen on PBS) and cooking demonstrations. I am grateful to have been blessed with a life that allows me each day to rise and greet my ever-growing flock of rescued chickens, run with my dogs, cuddle with my cats, and enjoy life’s adventures with my human family (a husband, Michael, and three grown kids–Aki, Sera, and Cammy). I hope that I can continue working the rest of my life to inspire people, through delicious food, to adopt a diet that can save animals, the environment, and their health.

1 Comment

Sheila January 10, 2016
Wow! How exciting to find your page, Miyoko. I've always been a little stumped when subbing something for fish sauce in recipes, and I can't wait to make this! I might try subbing coconut sugar for the organic sugar, but other than that little switch, I'm loving this brilliant flavor fusion. I imagine it would stay viable in the fridge for a while due to the vinegar and fermented tofu?

I really loved your mini-bio. What a beautiful path and purpose you've had. Thank you for sharing your goodness on so many levels! In Gratitude, Sheila