Candy

How to Make Your Caramel 100x More Exciting: Replace Cream with Fruit

November 20, 2015

It feels like we've known about caramel since the beginning of time.

But the Romans, the Byzantines, the members of the Ming dynasty, the dinosaurs (!) did not spoon caramel sauce over their ice cream. Because in 1993, its existence was still news (in the U.S., at least).

Photo by Bobbi Lin

In a New York Times article, Flo Fabricant defined it ("Pristine white crystals are transformed by heat into a molten glaze") and then reported:

The flavor is becoming increasingly popular on dessert menus, giving chocolate, the perennial favorite, some stiff competition.

Twenty-two years after FloFab's article, caramel is the rule, not the exception: Show me a cupcake/macaron/chocolate/ice cream shop that does not serve a caramel option, and I will give you... a caramel (?).

The genesis of caramel. Photo by James Ransom

But just when I thought I'd never be excited by caramel—or salted caramel (so 2002)—again, I found out about caramel sauce made not with butter or cream as the liquid, but with fruit juice.

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Top Comment:
“Being Brazilian and a frequent reader of this website, I'd just like to remind you that, even though caramel might have been news in New York in 1993, it has been used by Portuguese people and Brazilians since at least the 17th century... Please do research about food history OUTSIDE the US next time. ;)”
— Marilia M.
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First it was Suzanne Goin's Crème Fraîche Plum Cake, rippled with layers of "plum caramel": To make it, you purée plums in a food processor with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, then whisk the thick liquid into a deep amber caramel until you have a sharp, sour, sweet, dynamic sauce.

Photo by James Ransom

Then, Alice Medrich, who gave us a technique for candying cranberries and a variety of ways to use them, told us to use excess cranberry syrup to start a caramel.

And finally—in what can only be called a caramel trend sweeping the nationKristen reintroduced us to Lindsey Shere's Baked Caramel Pears: Here, the juice from roasted pears is used as the base of a caramel sauce that, in the closing of the circle of life, is spooned back over the cooked pears.

Drippy plum caramel, from above. Photo by James Ransom

So I knew it could be done with plums and pears and cranberry syrup, but would other fruits work, too?

Yes! Yes, they would. I tried blackberries (frozen), grapes (unpeeled), cranberries (raw), and orange juice. Because I didn't strain the fruits, the caramels were more textured than a traditional caramel. But what they lacked in smoothness, they made up for in a flavor that is much more complex and less purely sweet. And if you do want a silky texture, strain your fruit and use its juice instead!

Here's how to make your own fruit caramel sauce:

  1. Purée the fruit in a blender or food processor. I used 3/4 pound of fruit, which yielded about 1 1/4 cups fruit-stuffs. (I also made orange caramel sauce by using orange juice in place of cream, but that required no processing or blending.)

  2. If the fruit needs a little help to liquify, you can add lemon juice (1 tablespoon), alcohol (Goin's recipe calls for 2 tablespoons of Cognac or any brandy), or water. Since the blackberries were frozen before I processed them, I stuck them in the microwave in 30-second intervals until the mixture had relaxed into a liquid.

  3. Make a caramel like you know how. I brought 1/2 cup water and 3/4 cup sugar to a boil over medium heat without stirring. (You can add other flavors, like vanilla bean or cardamom pod or cinnamon stick.) When the mixture was a deep amber color (after about 10 minutes), I slowly poured in the fruit purée (or juice), whisking constantly until all sugar is dissolved.

  4. If you want a richer, more viscous sauce, add cream or butter. You can also allow the mixture to simmer and reduce at this point.

  5. Use your caramel. Spoon it over ice cream, swirl it into cake, spread it over a scone.

Clockwise from top left: blackberry, cranberry, orange, and grape caramel sauce. Photo by Linda Xiao

10 Comments

Zozo November 21, 2015
Omg, why haven't we thought of this before? If it's anything like apple tarte tatin then it's probably going to be a winner
 
Riddley G. November 20, 2015
I fell in love with your plum caramel and have been (happily) addicted ever since. I want to try K's baked pear technique with apples next!
 
amysarah November 20, 2015
What a great idea to use fruit puree - why did I never think of this? <br /><br />But while FloFab no doubt deserves credit for predicting the trend, caramel was very well known in the US, way before 1993. Caramel covered apples (far superior to the red candy coated, tooth-breaker type), old fashioned Southern caramel cake, caramel popcorn (anyone remember Poppycock?), caramel in Milky Ways and endless other candies...we've been doing caramel for generations! Not to mention creme caramel and profiteroles or floating island with caramel sauce as standard desserts at most old school French restaurants - think Lutece or La Caravelle, NYC circa 1965. (Life long devotee of caramel here...does it show much? ;-)
 
Marilia M. November 20, 2015
Being Brazilian and a frequent reader of this website, I'd just like to remind you that, even though caramel might have been news in New York in 1993, it has been used by Portuguese people and Brazilians since at least the 17th century... Please do research about food history OUTSIDE the US next time. ;)
 
Author Comment
Sarah J. November 20, 2015
Yes, that's a very, very good point! I meant that it was news in the U.S. and I've updated the article to reflect that. Thanks for pointing that out, Marilia.
 
Marmalady November 20, 2015
Oh my god!!! How exciting!<br />How did the the grape caramel turn out? I have some grapes that are too ripe in my fridge that I was just debating throwing out or trying to do something with...
 
Author Comment
Sarah J. November 20, 2015
It was really great!! Not as silky-smooth as normal caramel, as I write in the post, but you could also push the grapes through a sieve to get some of the peels out of the way! I loved the flavor.
 
Marmalady November 22, 2015
thanks, sarah! can't wait to try!
 
Marmalady November 22, 2015
just made it with my grapes...delish
 
Author Comment
Sarah J. November 22, 2015
Hooray! Glad it was a success.