Today: A January detox recipe that will give you comfort, not discipline.
A few years back, we rediscovered our national affection for the brussels sprout (or maybe we found it for the first time) -- and it stuck.
The long, painful boil behind us, we've shaved and slaw-ified. We've deep-fried, standing back, till their frizzly manes curled and popped. And by my count, as of 2014, we have roasted 1 metric ton per person.
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But right now, even our most cherished go-tos are an ill fit. A little heavy, or a little too clean and crunchy; none just right. Let us help with that. Here, from Danny Meyer & Michael Romano's classic Union Square Café Cookbook, is a brussels sprout recipe that will bring a bright new pattern to your life: the hash.
Hashing combines the best of our favorite techniques -- the loft of a raw shredded salad with the warmth and toasted edges of high-heat roasting or frying. It takes little time or planning to pull off and, just in time for January, gives you a light -- but not too light -- new favorite.
"We had long thought that brussels sprouts were a 'torpedo' as we used to say; in other words, an item that could sink a dish it was paired with," Romano wrote in an email. "So we took on the challenge of creating a recipe that would help people like brussels sprouts!" It was a hit: lithe and cooked just enough, with no cabbage-y funk.
Here's what to do:
Halve, then thinly slice a pile of sprouts. With a little therapeutic knife work, tight green coils relax into a feathery heap. As you go, you'll toss the strands in lemon juice and break up any lingering clumps. Genius points: you can prep this recipe a few hours ahead, if you stop here.
When you're ready to eat, heat olive oil in a wide sauté pan, then pour in your pile of would-be slaw, plus garlic and poppy seeds (or mustard seeds, per a popular variation).
Stir it around just till it loses its raw edge, then pour in white wine for a quick, cleansing steam. Season, then serve before it loses its glow.
Serves 4 to 6 1 pound large brussels sprouts Juice of 1/2 lemon 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 1 tablespoon poppy seeds 1/4 cup white wine 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Photos by James Ransom, except Michael Romano & Danny Meyer courtesy of Union Square Café via The Atlantic
Got a genius recipe to share -- from a classic cookbook, an online source, or anywhere, really? Please send it my way (and tell me what's so smart about it) at [email protected]Thanks to Food52er Eliz. for this one!
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I'm an ex-economist, ex-Californian who moved to New York to work in food media in 2007. Dodgy career choices aside, I can't help but apply the rational tendencies of my former life to things like: recipe tweaking, digging up obscure facts about pizza, and deciding how many pastries to put in my purse for "later."