The Piglet2015 / First Round, 2015

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Prune  vs. Heritage


Gabrielle Hamilton

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Sean Brock

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Judged by: Ryan Sutton

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Ryan Sutton is the chief food critic and data lead at Eater. He was previously a food critic and reporter at Bloomberg News from 2006 to 2014. He is the founder of The Price Hike, a blog that tracks the rising cost of dining out throughout the world. Ryan loves eating caviar, drinking daiquiris, speaking Russian, downhill skiing, and short track speed skating. He lives in Manhattan and Long Beach.

The Judgment

So you want a cookbook review? Here’s your [expletive-omitted] cookbook review. I’m standing by the kitchen sink, pouring hot water over the inside pages of two reasonably heavy tomes: Prune by Gabrielle Hamilton and Heritage by Sean Brock. I’m doing this for thirty seconds over each book, counting using the Mississippi method, because really, these hefty editions look like coffee table books, not working-in-the-kitchen books, and there’s no way they can stand the rigors of a tempestuous sink. 

But guess what? The water beads off each with ease. There’s virtually no ink bleed. Within minutes, the pages are dry enough to continue turning. I can even pick up each one by the wet pages and shake them off like Taylor Swift shakes off her haters. And nothing rips. Well, nothing rips too badly. (Try that with your vintage copy of Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking and see what happens.) But alas, since I don’t review restaurants by throwing rocks at them, I thought all of you might appreciate a little content criticism as well. Here you go.  

Let’s start with Prune, which refers to a very good restaurant of the same name in Manhattan’s East Village. Hamilton is gifted at pissing people off, and that skill, which she's cultivated and deployed with aplomb, comes through masterfully in her cookbook. This is when I tell you that Prune lacks a foreword, intro, or any type of usable index. I had a hell of a time finding one of the recipes after I closed the book while grilling. Ever try flicking through glossy pages with compound butter and raw meat on your fingers? Isn’t fun. All of a sudden you wish you had those more textured Julia Child pages back, don’t you? 

What is refreshing, however, is Hamilton's lack of condescension. There’s no talk about this or that being too difficult for the home cook. Hamilton writes Prune in the voice of a "faux-manual" for her sous chefs. This is how our restaurant is run. That means the reader, dressed in stretchy yoga pants while lounging on a sofa (that’s me), gets to vicariously and safely enjoy the experience of being admonished in a sweaty professional kitchen over long hours and for little pay. 

What’s even cooler is that Prune’s pages are peppered with a collection of no nonsense, handwritten notes. For example, when turning leek bottoms into decorative arrangements: “Crowd them a bit so it doesn’t look too precious or Martha Stewart-y.” I also liked the tip about avoiding "boiling crab gut" burns while making soft shells; I’ve been scorched while heating fish in hot oil before, though Hamilton clearly underestimates the value of showing off scars on first dates.  

But even if she is writing Prune as a pretend manual for her restaurant, it appears as if she's more interested in having someone follow instructions rather than having a cook think for herself. That lack of context is no small matter. One of the most important things about the hospitality industry is that we should be teaching young chefs (and home cooks) powerful ideas and techniques that can shape the way they view food. 

Not only do we not get enough of that greater world view from Prune, we don't consistently get it at the smaller, dish-by-dish level. No, not every entrée needs a 500-word story behind it (“my granddaddy made this during the siege of Leningrad and originally used dog brains”). But why is salt-crusting the best way to cook a tenderloin? What should tripe or beef heart or monkfish liver -- three ingredients that are relatively unfamiliar to home cooks -- taste like? It's not just a question of what someone might experience; it's a question of learning how offal should taste when it's fresh and when it's foul.  

And why not give a reader some idea as to why one would use two parts chuck and one part lamb in a burger -- is it to tame the latter for those who don’t like its musky taste? (Sutton Tip: You’ll be fine with half lamb or even all lamb). Moreover, that burger recipe calls for “wall-to-wall” shallot butter on each side of the English muffin bun. Such a move would be smart to rescue a disastrously over-cooked patty; but with these well-marbled meats, the extra fat only creates a drippy mess (along with a postprandial feeling of deep personal shame).

The only larger lesson we really get from Hamilton appears to be her (brilliant) soliloquy on how to cook family meal, the pre-shift tradition at many restaurants where a chef is charged with feeding the rest of the staff, often using mostly scraps and leftovers. As so many Americans struggle to feed their sons, daughters, and parents, Hamilton gorgeously paints that daily, sometimes drudgery-laden task as an honor rather than a duty. “You start with nothing but a cauldron of boiling water and a stone and by the end of the story you have a rich meal filled with all the little bits that each villager was able to contribute.”  

And at the more micro-level, to be fair, Hamilton nails it with her section titled “Garbage,” where she tells readers how to salvage spent Parmesan rinds by making stracciatella soup, how to rescue expired cream by making butter, and how to turn dirty celery into ragu. You get these pithy techniques condensed into 43 pages; offer that as separate book with the family meal section and watch it sell millions. 

By the way, those who want to cheat around the lack of an index can download the book on iTunes and use the search function on an iPad. Otherwise, just make like a chef and fold the pages. Who gives a [bleep], right? Cooking is messy.

By contrast, Sean Brock, the chef behind McCrady’s, Husk, and Minero in Charleston, as well as another Husk in Nashville, has given us something different. He’s published not just a cookbook but a textbook on the diverse foods of the American South, with particular attention paid to the culinary differences between the mountainous region known as Appalachia and the maritime-inclined region known as South Carolina's Lowcountry. You could not cook at all from this book and you'd still learn the difference between a poussin, a roaster, a stewing hen, a capon, and a cock. You’ll learn how to age game birds safely (maybe).  

You’ll learn that Brock sources his food from south of the Mason Dixon line, a political distinction that many Northerners don’t remember or recognize. You'll learn that Charleston, despite its gorgeous coastline, hasn't always had the best seafood and that if your local butcher doesn't have great rabbits, you might be able to find better ones via the classifieds. (Brock says he sourced one of the best rabbits he ever tasted from a trailer park.) 

You'll learn how much effort goes into cooking grits (he recommends soaking them overnight!). You’ll learn how to appreciate bourbon and why you'll need five bottles of different proof for a cocktail party. You’ll also learn about why Brock loves Pappy Van Winkle, even though he fails to mention precisely how rare and gosh darn expensive it can be. In his Julian cocktail, he suggests using 2 1/2 ounces of Pappy, which at the prevailing market rate of $900 per bottle makes it a $79 drink. Hope you’re drinking alone!

Should you eat an amberjack? “These suckers are full of worms. But although the amberjack in Charleston’s warm waters may harbor parasites, the squeamish will miss out on a delicious treat. Soaking the flesh in a little salt brine overnight will drive out the worms.” Now you know.

Other questions remain. Why precisely must one slow-cook a pork shoulder for 14 hours when so many other cookbooks recommend shorter times? Why does Brock only recommend cooking with your "grandmother" if she's still alive, instead of your grandfather? (In my family, my dad did a lot of the cooking in my teens as my mom went to law school.)  

When cooking grits: “After an hour, you’ll feel a textural change, and the grits will be very soft and tender. They will tell you when they are done -- it’s not something you set a timer for.” I’ll have to take the latter statement as being more true than the former, as I stirred for much longer than an hour, and my grits weren’t soft. (Disclosure: This was my first time making grits -- this Yankee grew up on Cream of Wheat.)

Also: Since Brock is so eloquent in (rightfully) tipping his hat to the culinary treasures that slaves brought over from West Africa (benne, cowpeas), perhaps it would've done him well to at least briefly acknowledge the horrors involved in the economies of human trafficking and involuntary servitude that plagued our nation (and the world) only a few generations ago.  

That all said, as much as I love Hamilton’s use of the acronym “OMFG” (a coarser version of OMG), I learned so much more from Heritage than Prune. His book has a larger worldview that better serves both the home cook and the professional cook looking to understand why we eat the way we do in America, so Brock gets my winning vote. Though in all fairness, I should disclose that while I doused both books in water, I reviewed them without having subjected them to the all important blowtorch test. Forgive me. I’m new at this.

And the winner is…



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Do you Agree? (63 comments)

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23b88974 7a89 4ef5 a567 d442bb75da04  avatar

I'm really fond of Hamilton's book, but excellent point about it not doing enough to educate--that could have been done well within the you're-a-sous-chef conceit. I made a sort-of index (more of a master TOC) that you can download from my blog: http://rovinggastronome...

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I'm surprised, but Heritage looks like it's great!

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Hey, great job on the reviews - thank you for being so thorough. I already own Prune - I understand your point of view completely. Still, I'm fortunate enough to have eaten the exquisite meals at Prune restaurant, so I'm only too happy Ms Hamilton was willing to put her recipes out there for me & all her happy diners. I'll have to check out Heritage, your enthusiasm is contagious !

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had my heart set on Prune, but after this post maybe i need to set my sights on Heritage instead!

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I would have liked it if the reviewer cooked from each cookbook in the process of evaluating its merits. That said, this was a fascinating review.

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Loved the reviews, excellent points. So far I have only read (each and every page of) Prune. Some context is provided in her memoir. I can't wait to crack Heritage now.

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heritage is absolutely gorgeous!

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Please write more cookbook reviews. This was wonderful.

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Thanks for the review! Love the cover for Heritage! It was difficult for me to tell what you cooked from each book, how easy to find ingredients and cook it, and how it tasted. I am sure we all know quite well by now the horrors and heartbreak of slavery, and it creates a more positive mindset instead of bitterness to focus on the culinary and other treasures, such as music, that Came from this sad chapter in our history.

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Thanks for the indept review. Heritage just moved up a few notches on my ever growing wishlist.

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I'd love to go pick up a copy of Heritage right now, but I'm afraid I wouldn't be able to track down the necessary ingredients to cook from it. I had to go to three different Seattle-area grocers just to find collard greens the other week (and two for grits). I can only imagine how difficult it would be to track down amberjack.

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Good review. Tough draw. This could have been a final round with different seeding. I agree with the verdict though.

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Beautiful! I recently visited Husk and can't wait to take a closer look at the book.

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I like it. Good review with concise explanations for your choices. Cookbooks are personal reads, but for me, if they are not interesting to read, they have to deliver clear instructions and tested results in a home kitchen.

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I lover heritage! I just made his buttermilk pie this morning. Other successful recipes are his sweet potato doughnuts, corn bread, and fried chicken.

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i know they say you shouldn't judge a book by its cover but heritage couldn't have had a better cover..such a tease for what's in store inside..

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I have loved Sean Brock's cooking since Freddy and I were the vintners and he was the chef at the Sun Valley Wine Auction about 6 years ago. I am so glad that he has put all that talent and vision, as well as delicious recipes into print.

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absolutely in love with this book!

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I have a deep love for Blood, Bones, and Butter, but found myself unusually intimidated by Prune. However, the review of the Garbage section has me anxious for another look! That being said, now I just can't wait to get my hands on Heritage. Thanks for a tantalizing review!

23b88974 7a89 4ef5 a567 d442bb75da04  avatar

Heads up that Prune is indexed on Eat Your Books! Boy was I glad to find that out, because several of the recipes I cooked from Prune were good enough to want to repeat almost immediately. Also, Ryan Sutton to the contrary, I found that I learned something unique from many of the recipes in Prune - even though I'm an avid, experienced, and adventurous cook with a substantial cookbook collection. Prune was the winner, for me!