What to CookKorean

The Funky, Flavorful Sides a Korean Meal Wouldn't Be Complete Without

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"Banchan is very important to me," says Sunny Lee, who leads the banchan program at the Korean restaurant Insa in Brooklyn, New York. "It has a very long history in Korea."

Banchan means side dish in Korean, but in reality it's a bunch of small dishes filled to the brim with pickles and the like that scatter the table at lunch or dinner. And if you've ever eaten at a Korean barbecue restaurant, or somewhere more traditional, you'll know them by their multitude, and that they all somehow fit together: often different kimchis and beans, or sprouts and tiny fish to snack on before and with a meal. I asked Sunny, and Michael Stokes, Insa's chef de cuisine, to give me a lowdown on banchan, and how its history details much of Korea's itself.

Smokey Eggplant Namul
Smokey Eggplant Namul

Sunny and Michael incorporate ingredients into their banchan that you wouldn't normally see—for instance, locally grown kale—mostly because they try to source many of their ingredients regionally, to reflect the indigenous vegetables of the city and New York State and to give the food a homey vibe, to remove it from the restaurant setting. And while a lot of Korean restaurants never change their banchan offerings (kimchi is kimchi is kimchi), Insa's rotates seasonally to showcase what's growing at that moment nearby, with techniques and flavorings that aren't replicated again and again. "A lot of people think that banchan is just kimchi, but actually less than half is kimchi," Sunny says.

And this approach, they say, actually more accurately reflects how banchan has been made and consumed throughout its history.

"During the Joseon period, 1392 AD to 1897 AD, the branches of the Six Ministries—basically governmental departments—were tasked with procuring foods from the eight regions of Korea each month," Michael explains. He goes on to tell me that specialties from each region were highlighted on the royal table, giving the king an indication of the conditions and prosperity of the regions.

Insa's seasonal ban chan alongside their bulgogi.
Insa's seasonal ban chan alongside their bulgogi. Photo by James Ransom

And while it's difficult to pinpoint exactly when banchan took it's shape as a vegetable-driven course in Korean cuisine, Michael explains that it happened when Buddhism became the predominant religion in the country, towards the end of the Three Kingdoms Period (57 AD to 668 AD). "Buddhist doctrine forbids the consumption of meat. This contributed greatly to the development of vegetable-based banchan we see today," he adds. Further, Michael says, Buddhism had a strong influence on the country's food until the Mongol invasions, which began during the 13th century. After this, meat again became more prevalent in the Korean diet. But banchan remained an integral part of most Korean meals.

Next time you're making bulgogi, kalbi or bibimbap, whip up a few of Insa's banchan recipes, below, too, and you'll have a proper spread.

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Kale Pickled Seaweed

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Serves 4

Pickled Seaweed

  • 8 ounces dried kelp or "myuk"
  • 3 quarts cold water
  • 1 pint soy sauce
  • 1 cup rice vinegar
  • 1 cup distilled white vinegar
  • 1/2 cup mirin
  • 3 pieces of dried shiitake

Kale and Pickled Seaweed Banchan

  • 1 pound kale
  • Pickled seaweed
  • 3 cloves chopped raw garlic
  • 3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
  • 3 tablespoons Dwenjang, Korean soy bean paste
  • 2 tablespoons honey
  • 1 tablespoon ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup chopped scallions
  • 1/4 cup toasted sesame oil
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Oisobagi (Summer Quick Cucumber Kimchi)

E56c06da dac4 48cf 8040 8ed011cd4cbd  avatar 540 white Food52
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Makes 6
  • 6 pieces of firm Kirby cucumbers
  • 2 tablespoons salt + 1 tablespoon salt
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1 cup julienne carrots
  • 1 cup julienne "moo" radish, or daikon
  • 5 scallions, cut into 1" batons
  • 3 cloves of garlic, chopped fine
  • 1 tablespoon raw chopped ginger
  • 3 tablespoons gochugaru
  • 3 tablespoons fish sauce
  • 1 teaspoon honey
  • 3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
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9ed9656f 0e47 4c43 8e51 57682fb26d32  2016 0719 korean bulgogi recipe james ransom 315

Smokey Eggplant Namul

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Serves 4
  • 4 Asian eggplants, cut in half lengthwise and lightly salted to draw out any bitterness
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 3 cloves of garlic, chopped fine
  • 4 scalllions, sliced thin
  • 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
  • 3 tablespoons rice vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons white soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon fish sauce
  • 3 tablespoons sesame oil
  • 1 tablespoon gochugaru, or Korean chili flakes
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Corn Sesame Custard

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Serves 4
  • 6 ears of corn, shucked
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
  • salt to taste
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Have you ever tried ban chan? Tell us your favorite in the comments!

Automagic Spring Menu Maker!
Automagic Spring Menu Maker!

Tags: Side, Vegetable, Food History, Korean